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Redring Water too COLDwhat to check

Get it checkedElectric showerLast updated

Redring answer this with eight checks in a deliberate order, and the seventh is the one nobody guesses: run the shower cold to reset the cut-out.

Take care

Some of this is safe to check yourself, but the repair itself is not. If the fault comes back after one reset, stop resetting it and get a qualified electrician to look at the Redring properly.

What this means

Redring publish this as a plain question with eight numbered answers, and the order they put them in is the useful part, because it goes from free to expensive and from outside the shower to inside it. The first three are supply: check the mains circuit breaker or fuse, check the electrical isolation switch is turned on, and check the rotary power selector is set to high power, which they identify by the three solid red lines on the dial.

That third one is genuinely common and it is peculiar to brands with a physical power selector — a shower left on its lowest setting in January will run barely warm and nothing is wrong with it. The next two are the controls and the water: increase the temperature by turning the control towards the red graphic, and confirm there is sufficient mains water pressure.

Then comes the one that makes this checklist worth reading rather than skimming. Steps six and seven are to restart the shower on the high power setting, and to allow cold water to run through the shower to reset the cyclic over temperature cut out. That is a reset procedure hidden inside a cold-water checklist, and it is the opposite of what people do instinctively, which is to switch the shower off and wait. On a Redring, running it cold is the reset. Only after all seven does Redring reach step eight, which is to contact customer service. That structure is the brand's house style and it is why these pages follow their sequence rather than a general one.

What causes it

Causes of Redring Water too COLD, most common first
CauseWhat is actually happeningHow likely
Power selector not on highRedring’s third check, identified by three solid red lines on the dial. Peculiar to brands with a physical selector and easy to knock in passing.Common
Cyclic over temperature cut-out has operatedTheir seventh check. The device has taken the elements out, and on a Redring running cold water through resets it rather than switching off and waiting. That is stage one; Redring also describe a stage two that operates at an extreme temperature, switches off permanently and has to be replaced, which is what a shower that stays cold after the cold run has reached.Common
Breaker, fuse or isolation switch offRedring’s first two checks and the reason they come first. No power to the elements makes an electric shower into a cold tap.Common
Insufficient mains water pressureTheir fifth check. Too little flow and the shower will not heat, because heating a barely moving tank is the thing it must not do.Occasional
Temperature control turned too far towards coldTheir fourth. Redring direct you towards the red graphic on the dial, and their controls take twenty to thirty seconds to show the effect.Occasional

What to try yourself

  1. Check the mains circuit breaker or fuse for the shower circuit, then check the electrical isolation switch is turned on. Redring put these first and so does this page.

    If the breaker has tripped and trips again when the shower runs, stop resetting it. That is an electrical fault rather than a supply that needs switching back on.
  2. Set the rotary power selector to high power, which Redring identify as three solid red lines on the dial. A selector left low will run barely warm in winter.

  3. Turn the temperature control towards the red graphic, then wait twenty to thirty seconds before judging it. Redring are explicit that each adjustment takes that long to take effect.

  4. Confirm there is sufficient mains water pressure by running a cold tap nearby, and check the servicing valve on the shower feed is fully open.

  5. Restart the shower on high power, then run cold water through it to reset the cyclic over temperature cut out. This is Redring’s own step seven; they give no time for it, because the cut-out resets once the heater has cooled.

  6. If there is still no hot water after all seven, Redring’s own eighth step is to contact customer service. At that point it is an element or a control fault behind the cover.

Get a qualified electrician to look at your Redring electric shower

We do not pass enquiries to a repair firm, so there is no form here. When you book a qualified electrician, tell them the make, the model and the exact code or message on the display, and ask whether they carry parts for this make — that is what turns one visit into a repair rather than a quote.

What it costs to fix

Typical repair cost

£0–£180

Time on site

25 minutes

Nothing for the first seven of Redring’s eight checks. Only their eighth, an element or control fault behind the cover, involves a visit and a part.

Typical UK prices including parts and labour, updated September 2026. Your quote may differ.

Own this appliance and had this code? . Nothing is published until a person has read it.

Common questions

How do I reset a Redring thermal cut-out?

By running cold water through the shower. Redring call it a cyclic over temperature cut out and give running cold as the reset — not switching off and waiting, which is how Bristan’s works, and not a replacement part, which is how Triton’s works.

What are the three red lines on the dial?

Redring’s marking for the high power setting on the rotary power selector. Their cold-water checklist asks you to confirm the selector is on it, because a shower on a lower setting is running fewer elements by design.

Why do I have to wait twenty to thirty seconds after adjusting the temperature?

Because the water already in the unit and the hose has to clear before you feel the change. Redring state the interval explicitly, and it is why people overshoot by turning the dial further while waiting.

Written by

Andrew Pickett

Researcher and writer

Last updated

Technical review

Not reviewed by an engineer

No engineer has read this page. Severity follows what the manufacturer publishes, and we would rather tell you that than let a byline imply a sign-off.

What we check instead

Sources and how we verified this

We establish the facts from the sources below and then write the explanation ourselves. We do not copy manufacturer wording and we do not host their manuals.

  • Manufacturer technical and service documentation

This page has not been reviewed by an engineer, and we would rather tell you that than imply otherwise. The severity rating follows what the manufacturer publishes: where they say isolate the appliance and call someone, so do we.

Read our full verification process

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