Hobs fault codes by brand
Find your manufacturer below, then your code. Most induction hob displays are not faults at all — a pan the hob cannot detect, a zone that has protected itself from overheating, or the residual heat warning telling you the glass is still hot.
There is a live safety notice on some of these appliances
A serious-risk programme covers gas hob elbow joints across twelve brands, including Samsung and Belling/Stoves, with a risk of poisoning, burns or gas explosion. The companies are visiting homes to make affected hobs safe.
The regulator specifically asks people who are unsure whether they are affected to check and come forward, not only those who know. Separately, Bosch NGU4151DB and Neff T20S31N0 gas hobs made between 2009 and 2011 are covered by a BSH gas connector campaign.
Brands
Pick your manufacturer to see every code we cover.
Most looked-up hob codes
Across every brand in this category.
- HAll brandsThe zone is still hot. Hotpoint and Rangemaster publish the threshold — lit until the glass is below 60 degrees — and Lamona warn it can still burn you after it goes out.Usually simple to fix
- Pan not detectedAll brandsA zone that flashes and will not heat usually cannot find your pan. Induction needs a ferrous base, big enough for the zone and flat against the glass.Usually simple to fix
- FAEGOn an induction hob this is about the pan, and AEG say whether it is steady or flashing changes the answer. Steady on a new hob means the installation.Usually simple to fix
- U400All brandsThe hob is wired to the wrong supply. It appears within days of installation, and the person to call is the electrician rather than the appliance manufacturer.Get it checked
- E4AEGOverheating protection operating, not a breakdown. It clears itself as the hob cools, and AEG warn that the residual heat H may stay on afterwards.Usually simple to fix
- Burner will not stay alightAEGThe flame dies when you let go of the knob. AEG give two causes and only one is yours: a dirty or misplaced burner cap, or a failed thermocouple.Get it checked
- E3AEGThe hob is seeing 400 volts. AEG name the person to ring and it is not their service line — it is the qualified electrician who installed it.Get it checked
- LAEGThe panel is locked, and AEG publish two different locks that both show L. One re-arms itself every time you switch off, which is why hobs seem to lock themselves.Usually simple to fix
- Zone cut outAll brandsA zone that stops part way through cooking has usually protected itself from overheating. That includes the touch controls, which sit under the glass at the front.Usually simple to fix
- hBekoLower case h is Beko’s low-temperature residual heat. The one to know is that after a power cut the indicator does not light at all, and the glass is still hot.Usually simple to fix
- E 27BekoThe pot is not one the hob can work with. Beko give it two code numbers — E 27 and E 47 — and both mean the same thing.Usually simple to fix
- E8AEGAsk one question first: has this hob ever worked? A new install means a missing phase in the wiring. A hob that worked and stopped means the electronics.Get it checked
- Flashing between two numbersAEGPower management, not a malfunction. Two zones on one side share a supply, and the display is showing you what you asked for and what you are getting.Usually simple to fix
- E9AEGA fault in the electronic module. AEG give you one power cycle to try, and if it comes back it is a board rather than a glitch.Get it checked
- F5NeffHot cookware is sitting too close to the control panel. Neff publish two versions, and whether a power level shows alongside tells you which you have.Usually simple to fix
- FFBekoBeko’s most distinctive display, and it is not a fault. Something is touching the control panel — a hand, a pan, or a spill.Usually simple to fix
- E 22BekoThe hob has overheated and backed off. Beko ask for nothing but time — it clears itself once the temperature drops below the limit.Usually simple to fix
- dEAll brandsDemo mode. The hob lights up, responds to touch and never heats anything, because it is set up for a showroom floor.Usually simple to fix
- E7AEGTwo different faults on one code, split by how old the hob is. On a modern one it is the cooling fan and you can look at it; before 2010 it is the power board.Get it checked
- E6AEGThe hob is not getting the supply it was installed for. AEG give the cause as incorrect installation or insufficient power: induction hobs usually want a 16 amp supply where most homes have 13.Get it checked
Symptoms
No code on the display? Start from what it is doing.
Hob controls not responding
Touch controls that ignore you are usually locked, wet or reading something else as a finger, and all three are free to put right once you know which it is.Hob ring stuck on or red light stays on
A ring that will not go off and a red light that will not go out are different problems: one is a switch or relay failed closed, the other is the hob saying the glass is still hot.Induction hob not working
An induction hob heats the pan and not itself, so most of what looks like a hob fault is a pan problem, an installation problem or a setting.
How hobs fault codes work
Induction hobs report more than any other appliance in a kitchen, and most of what they report is not a fault.
Start with the letter H, or a lower-case h, sitting on a zone you have already switched off. That is the residual heat indicator and it is the most searched hob display there is. It means the glass over that zone is still hot enough to burn you. It is not a code, nothing is wrong, and it will clear on its own as the surface cools. It is worth understanding rather than dismissing, because an induction hob heats the pan rather than the glass, so the surface can look and sound completely inert while still holding enough heat from the pan that stood on it to take skin off. The indicator is the only warning you get.
Then the short codes. Induction hobs use things like E1, E2, F0 and U400, and the single most useful division is between the ones that mean a fault and the ones that mean the hob is doing its job. A zone that will not start often means the hob cannot detect a pan — because the base is not ferrous, or is too small for the zone, or is warped enough that only its edges touch. A zone that cuts out part way through cooking is usually overheat protection, which is the hob deliberately backing off after a long session on high or a pan boiled dry. Neither is a breakdown. Both are frequently reported as one.
U400 deserves its own mention because of when it appears. On several induction brands it means the hob has been connected to the wrong mains supply — the wrong voltage, or a wiring configuration it does not accept — and it therefore turns up immediately after installation rather than after years of use. A brand new hob showing it has almost certainly been wired wrongly rather than delivered broken, and it is the electrician who needs to come back rather than the manufacturer.
A word on power sharing, because it produces a complaint that sounds like a fault and is a design decision. Zones on an induction hob are paired, and a pair shares one generator. Push one zone to maximum and its partner cannot also run at maximum; it will quietly cap itself, or drop a level, or refuse to boost. Nothing is failing. The hob is dividing the power it has, and on a four-zone hob you will meet this any time you use two zones hard on the same side.
Isolation matters here in the same way it does for ovens, and for the same reason: there is usually no plug. A hob is wired to a cooker circuit through a switch on the wall, and making it safe means finding that switch or the breaker in the consumer unit rather than reaching behind a unit for a socket that does not exist. If your hob is gas, everything behind the surface is legally restricted work in the UK and belongs to a Gas Safe registered engineer — and if you can smell gas, do not touch any switch at all, including to turn something off. Leave the property and ring the emergency line from outside.
Guides
Hob showing H, L, F or U400: what it means and how to reset
Most letters on a hob are the hob working. Which ones are, which are the wiring, how each brand resets, and why a cold-looking surface is not to be trusted.Hob faults: what you can fix, who to call, and what it costs
One category, two trades. What a householder can do on an induction or gas hob, where the glass and the gas stop you, and what the repairs cost.