Hob faults common to all brands
Some hob displays mean the same thing whoever made yours. The residual heat letter, a zone that will not detect your pan, and the wiring code that appears the week a new kitchen goes in are asked of every brand, and the manufacturers agree on the answers.
This page is not a substitute for the table your manufacturer actually published. Neff, AEG, Beko and Rangemaster each have their own codes, and a letter that is residual heat on one make can be a covered sensor or a child lock on another. Start here only when the display is one of the shared ones; if yours is a numbered E-code or a brand-specific F, open that brand hub.
A single letter is almost never a breakdown. H or h means the glass is still hot. A flashing zone usually cannot find a ferrous pan. U400, and the supply codes Neff, Bosch and Siemens publish beside it, point at the cooker circuit rather than at the hob — that is an electrician, not an appliance engineer. If the hob is gas and you can smell gas, do not touch any switch: leave and ring the emergency line from outside. These pages are written from the manufacturers' own manuals; no Gas Safe engineer has reviewed them.
Named-brand hubs in this category: AEG, Neff, Beko and Rangemaster. Those pages carry the manufacturer’s own table; this one does not replace them.
How these displays appear
A single letter is almost never a fault. H or h is residual heat, F on a Miele means the sensor controls are covered, and a flashing zone symbol usually means the hob cannot find your pan. U400, and the supply codes each brand publishes alongside it — E9000 and E9010 on Neff, Bosch and Siemens, E3 and E311 on AEG — are a different matter: those point at the wiring or the mains supply rather than at the appliance, which means an electrician rather than an appliance engineer.
What a reset actually does
Most hob displays clear on their own once the condition behind them goes: put a suitable pan back on and the pan-detection symbol clears, let the glass cool and the residual heat letter goes out, take your hand off the panel and an overheat pause resets. For anything that persists, isolating the hob means finding the cooker switch on the wall rather than a plug, because there usually is not one. If your hob is gas and you can smell gas, do not touch any switch at all — leave and ring the emergency line from outside.
Most common shared hobs faults
The hob displays people look up most, whichever badge is on the appliance.
- HUsually simple to fixThe zone is still hot. Hotpoint and Rangemaster publish the threshold — lit until the glass is below 60 degrees — and Lamona warn it can still burn you after it goes out.
- Pan not detectedUsually simple to fixA zone that flashes and will not heat usually cannot find your pan. Induction needs a ferrous base, big enough for the zone and flat against the glass.
- U400Get it checkedThe hob is wired to the wrong supply. It appears within days of installation, and the person to call is the electrician rather than the appliance manufacturer.
- Zone cut outUsually simple to fixA zone that stops part way through cooking has usually protected itself from overheating. That includes the touch controls, which sit under the glass at the front.
Every shared hob fault
5 published shared pages. Filtering happens in the page — every one is in the HTML.
Showing 5 of 5 codes
Hobs these pages cover
These pages apply across types. The split is by how the appliance is built, not by badge.
Guides that help with hobs faults
Hob showing H, L, F or U400: what it means and how to reset
Most letters on a hob are the hob working. Which ones are, which are the wiring, how each brand resets, and why a cold-looking surface is not to be trusted.Read the guideHob faults: what you can fix, who to call, and what it costs
One category, two trades. What a householder can do on an induction or gas hob, where the glass and the gas stop you, and what the repairs cost.Read the guide