AEG hob fault codes

AEG document their hobs better than anyone else in this category, and the most useful thing in that documentation is not the fault codes. It is that they give a separate published answer for every single letter that can appear, and almost all of those letters are the hob working properly.

Where the code shows on a AEG

AEG use two families. Single letters — H, A, F, L, P, U and a plain dash — are function indicators, and with one exception none of them is a fault. Codes beginning E are the fault and installation family, and they come in a short form and a longer three-digit form that mean the same thing, so E3 and E311 are one code. The split that matters inside the E family is that some of them are the hob and some of them are the wiring feeding it.

How to reset a AEG

AEG give the same first step for most E codes and it is more specific than the usual advice: disconnect the hob from the electricity supply for at least 30 seconds, then reconnect. On a built-in hob there is no plug, so they accept switching the RCD or the circuit breaker off and back on. If the code returns immediately after that, it is not a glitch and repeating the cycle will not help. Note that AEG warn faults caused by incorrect installation may not be covered under the warranty, so on a hob that has never worked properly since it went in, the person to call is the installer rather than the service line.

Most common AEG faults

The AEG codes people look up most.

Every AEG fault code

11 published codes. Filtering happens in the page — every one is in the HTML.

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Showing 11 of 11 codes

Every published AEG fault code with its meaning and severity
Code	What it means	Severity
F	On an induction hob this is about the pan, and AEG say whether it is steady or flashing changes the answer. Steady on a new hob means the installation.	Usually simple to fix
E4	Overheating protection operating, not a breakdown. It clears itself as the hob cools, and AEG warn that the residual heat H may stay on afterwards.	Usually simple to fix
Burner will not stay alight	The flame dies when you let go of the knob. AEG give two causes and only one is yours: a dirty or misplaced burner cap, or a failed thermocouple.	Get it checked
E3	The hob is seeing 400 volts. AEG name the person to ring and it is not their service line — it is the qualified electrician who installed it.	Get it checked
L	The panel is locked, and AEG publish two different locks that both show L. One re-arms itself every time you switch off, which is why hobs seem to lock themselves.	Usually simple to fix
E8	Ask one question first: has this hob ever worked? A new install means a missing phase in the wiring. A hob that worked and stopped means the electronics.	Get it checked
Flashing between two numbers	Power management, not a malfunction. Two zones on one side share a supply, and the display is showing you what you asked for and what you are getting.	Usually simple to fix
E9	A fault in the electronic module. AEG give you one power cycle to try, and if it comes back it is a board rather than a glitch.	Get it checked
E7	Two different faults on one code, split by how old the hob is. On a modern one it is the cooling fan and you can look at it; before 2010 it is the power board.	Get it checked
E6	The hob is not getting the supply it was installed for. AEG give the cause as incorrect installation or insufficient power: induction hobs usually want a 16 amp supply where most homes have 13.	Get it checked
F gas hob	On an electronic gas hob, F or E6 means a burner could not be ignited. AEG publish a reset sequence with a three-second window, and two different versions of it.	Get it checked

AEG models

Codes can differ between generations. Check yours.

Guides that help with AEG faults

Looking for AEG’s own support? support.aeg.co.uk. We are not affiliated with AEG.