AEG E8 fault codewhat it means and how to fix it
Ask one question first: has this hob ever worked? A new install means a missing phase in the wiring. A hob that worked and stopped means the electronics.
Take care
What E8 means
AEG publish E8 and E822 with two causes and, unusually, they tell you how to tell them apart. Their split is by timing. If the hob is newly installed, the cause is that it has been incorrectly connected to the power supply. If it worked and then failed, the cause is an error in the electronics. Their own summary line puts both together as incorrect installation with a missing phase, or a communication error between electronics. That distinction is the whole page, because the two answers send you to different people and different bills.
A hob that has never run properly since the kitchen went in is an installation problem, and AEG's remedy is to check the connection against the installation instructions and contact the installer. A missing phase is what it sounds like: one of the connections that should be carrying supply is not, usually because the terminal links on the back of the hob are in the wrong configuration for a UK single-phase supply, which is a mistake that is easy to make and easy to correct once someone competent looks at it.
A hob that has worked for two years and now shows E8 is a different animal. The communication error is between the control panel you touch and the power electronics that do the heating, and it is a repair. There is a commercial point attached to the first case that is worth knowing before anyone attends: AEG state that faults arising from incorrect installation may not be covered under the warranty.
What causes it
| Cause | What is actually happening | How likely |
|---|---|---|
| Missing phase in the connection, on a new installation | AEG’s stated cause when the hob is newly installed. The terminal links on the back of the hob have to match the supply arrangement, and a wrong configuration leaves a connection dead. | Common |
| Communication error between the control and power electronics | AEG’s stated cause when the hob worked and then failed. The touch panel and the boards that drive the coils have lost their link. | Common |
| A connection that has worked loose | Sits between the two. A terminal that was tight enough to work at first and has since backed off gives the symptoms of the installation case on a hob that used to be fine. | Occasional |
What to try yourself
Answer the timing question before you do anything else: has this hob ever worked properly? AEG’s two causes divide exactly on that, and it decides who you ring.
If it worked before, disconnect the hob from the supply for at least 30 seconds and reconnect. On a built-in hob use the RCD or the circuit breaker. AEG give the restart as the first remedy for this case.
If the restart does not clear it, book an engineer. The communication fault between the boards is not an owner repair.
AEG add a line to this page that they do not put on most: they do not recommend using the hob until the issue has been fully resolved, and say to disconnect it and not reconnect it until you are certain it is safe to do so. Leave it isolated at the cooker switch until the engineer has been.If the hob is newly installed, do not book a manufacturer engineer yet. Go back to whoever wired it and ask them to check the connection against the installation instructions, which is AEG’s own remedy for this case.
AEG state that faults arising from incorrect installation may not be covered under warranty. A manufacturer visit to a miswired hob can be chargeable, and the installer putting their own work right normally is not.
Get a qualified appliance engineer to look at your AEG E8
We do not pass enquiries to a repair firm, so there is no form here. When you book a qualified appliance engineer, tell them the make, the model and the exact code or message on the display, and ask whether they carry parts for this make — that is what turns one visit into a repair rather than a quote.
What it costs to fix
Typical repair cost
£60–£260
Time on site
1 hour
An electrician correcting the connection sits at the lower end and should be free if it is a recent installation. A communication fault between the boards on an older hob sits at the top of the range once parts and labour are counted.
Typical UK prices including parts and labour, updated September 2026. Your quote may differ.
Own this appliance and had this code? . Nothing is published until a person has read it.
Related AEG fault codes
- E3Get it checkedThe hob is seeing 400 volts. AEG name the person to ring and it is not their service line — it is the qualified electrician who installed it.Related: supply and installation
- E6Get it checkedThe hob is not getting the supply it was installed for. AEG give the cause as incorrect installation or insufficient power: induction hobs usually want a 16 amp supply where most homes have 13.Related: supply and installation
- FUsually simple to fixOn an induction hob this is about the pan, and AEG say whether it is steady or flashing changes the answer. Steady on a new hob means the installation.Related: same brand
- E4Usually simple to fixOverheating protection operating, not a breakdown. It clears itself as the hob cools, and AEG warn that the residual heat H may stay on afterwards.Related: same brand
- Burner will not stay alightGet it checkedThe flame dies when you let go of the knob. AEG give two causes and only one is yours: a dirty or misplaced burner cap, or a failed thermocouple.Related: same brand
- LUsually simple to fixThe panel is locked, and AEG publish two different locks that both show L. One re-arms itself every time you switch off, which is why hobs seem to lock themselves.Related: same brand
Own an AEG hob? Save it and its codes come first next time.
Related guides
Common questions about AEG E8
What does a missing phase actually mean in a house?
A domestic UK supply is single phase, and the hob is wired to it through terminals on the back that are bridged by metal links in a pattern set out in the installation instructions. If those links are in the wrong position, one of the supply paths into the hob is dead, and the hob sees that as a phase missing.
Is E822 the same as E8?
Yes. AEG publish them together with the same causes and the same remedies. Some control boards show the short form and some the long one.
Can I check the wiring myself?
No. This is a cooker circuit with no plug, and the terminal block is behind the hob and live unless the circuit is isolated at the consumer unit. Correcting it is electrical work, and if the hob is new the person who got it wrong should be the one to come back.
Technical review
Not reviewed by an engineer
No engineer has read this page. Severity follows what the manufacturer publishes, and we would rather tell you that than let a byline imply a sign-off.
Sources and how we verified this
We establish the facts from the sources below and then write the explanation ourselves. We do not copy manufacturer wording and we do not host their manuals.
- Manufacturer support portal
This page has not been reviewed by an engineer, and we would rather tell you that than imply otherwise. The severity rating follows what the manufacturer publishes: where they say isolate the appliance and call someone, so do we.