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FaultcodeCheck

Hob ring stuck on or red light stays on

A ring that will not go off and a red light that will not go out are different problems: one is a switch or relay failed closed, the other is the hob saying the glass is still hot.

What it usually means

Start by separating the light from the heat, because the searches that bring people here mix them up and the answers could not be more different. If a zone display shows an H, a small h, or a red indicator after you have switched the ring off, and the glass beneath it is hot, that is the residual heat indicator doing exactly what it is for. Every ceramic and induction hob sold in the UK has one, several manufacturers publish the threshold at which it goes out, and it is common for it to sit lit for twenty minutes after a long boil. On an AEG hob the residual heat indicator is a red light, which is why "AEG hob red light stays on" is one of the ways this question gets asked. If it goes out once the glass is cool to the touch, there is nothing to fix. If it stays lit on a stone-cold hob, the temperature sensor for that zone has failed high, and the zone will usually still cook; that is a nuisance repair rather than a hazard, and a job for an engineer because the sensor is bonded to the underside of the glass.

A ring that is actually still heating after you have turned it off is the other problem, and it is the one to take seriously. On a ceramic or solid-plate hob, and on the hob of most Belling, Rangemaster and Stoves range cookers, each ring is controlled by an energy regulator, a mechanical switch that cycles the element on and off to hold the setting. When the contacts inside it weld or the spring breaks, the ring stays on at full power regardless of the knob, and the only thing that stops it is the cooker switch on the wall. On an induction or touch-control ceramic hob the same failure lives in a relay or a triac on the power board, and the symptom is a zone that keeps going with its display showing nothing, or showing a power level you cannot change. Either way, the appliance has lost the ability to switch that zone off, and it must be isolated at the wall and not used until the part is replaced. This is not a fault you wait out.

Between those two sit a handful of things that look like a stuck ring and are not. A radiant ring on a low setting glows and dims as the regulator cycles, and a ring on its lowest simmer setting can glow for a surprisingly long time after switching off while the element cools. A pan left on an induction zone with the zone still selected, a knob that has been turned all the way round rather than off, a child lock that is stopping the off command from registering, or a spill across the touch panel that is holding a control down all produce a ring that seems to ignore you. A hob with a stopwatch or timer function can also appear to restart on its own when the timer reaches zero and the zone was set to start rather than stop. Work through those first, because they are free, and because when you ring an engineer about a stuck ring the first thing they will ask is whether the wall switch stopped it.

How to narrow it down

Work through these in order.

Is the ring hot, or is it a light that is on?

Hold a hand well above the zone. Heat you can feel from an inch away means the element is live and the hob has lost control of it: switch off at the wall. A red light or an H over glass that is only warm is the residual heat indicator and needs no action beyond patience.

Does the wall switch stop it?

It must. If the ring goes cold when the cooker switch is off and comes back on when it is restored, whatever the knob or the panel says, the energy regulator or the power relay for that zone has failed closed. Leave the hob isolated and book the repair; it cannot be made safe from the front.

Which kind of hob is it?

On a knob-controlled ceramic or solid-plate hob, including the hobs on most Belling, Stoves and Rangemaster range cookers, the failed part is the energy regulator behind the knob. On a touch-control ceramic or induction hob it is a relay on the power board. Both are engineer parts, but the first is cheaper and quicker.

Is the light staying on with the glass cold?

A residual heat indicator that never clears on a cold hob is a zone temperature sensor reading high. The zone usually still cooks. It is worth fixing because the same sensor is what protects the glass from overheating, but it is not urgent and not dangerous.

Could a control be held down?

On a touch hob, a spill, a cloth or a pan lid across the panel holds a control and the hob may refuse the off command; Beko show FF for it and Neff show flashing displays. Clear and dry the glass. On a knob hob, check the knob has not gone past off and round to the highest setting.

Did it start after a power cut?

A ring that came on by itself when the supply returned, or a zone that restarted at its last setting, is a control board that has lost its state, not a stuck element. Switch off at the wall for a minute and back on; if the hob then behaves, watch it, and if it repeats it is the board.

Codes commonly shown with this

When it is urgent

Take care

Urgent if the ring is heating and will not switch off from the controls: isolate the hob at the cooker switch or the breaker and leave it off until the energy regulator or relay has been replaced. An element the appliance cannot switch off will boil a pan dry, crack a glass top and set light to whatever is left on it. Not urgent if it is a residual heat indicator over hot glass, which is the hob working, or an indicator that stays on over cold glass, which is a sensor to fix at your convenience. The energy regulator, the relay board and the zone sensor are all behind the glass or the fascia on a hard-wired appliance, and none of them is a householder repair.

What it costs

Typical repair cost

£0–£260

Typical UK prices including parts and labour, updated September 2026. Your quote may differ.

Get an engineer to look at this

We do not pass enquiries to a repair firm, so there is no form here. When you book a qualified appliance engineer, tell them the make, the model and the exact code or message on the display, and ask whether they carry parts for this make — that is what turns one visit into a repair rather than a quote.

Written by

Andrew Pickett

Researcher and writer

Last updated

Technical review

Not reviewed by an engineer

No engineer has read this page. Severity follows what the manufacturer publishes, and we would rather tell you that than let a byline imply a sign-off.

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