Range cookers fault codes by brand
Find your manufacturer below, then your code. Before you do, work out which part of the cooker the code came from — on almost every range cooker in the UK only the induction hob can show one, and the ovens have no published code table at all.
There is a live safety notice on some of these appliances
Belling, Stoves and New World gas range cookers with a gas grill, in 110cm, 100cm and 90cm, used with the grill door closed can produce extremely dangerous levels of carbon monoxide. The regulator rates it serious, more than 66,000 appliances are in scope, and the programme is still open.
Cookers bought at any time between 2010 and 2022. Until it is modified, only use the gas grill with the door open, and ring 0800 110 5728 for the free modification. New World owners: the safety page the government report sends you to is a dead domain, so use the Belling or Stoves page instead — it is the same appliance and the same programme.
Brands
Pick your manufacturer to see every code we cover.
Most looked-up range cooker codes
Across every brand in this category.
- Oven will not turn onAll brandsOn most range cookers the ovens will not heat until the clock has been set, and the timer has to be in manual mode. Three manufacturers publish this themselves.Usually simple to fix
- HAll brandsH on a zone display means the glass above it is still hot enough to burn you. It is a warning rather than a fault, and every brand sets its threshold differently.Usually simple to fix
- HStovesStoves publish H as a residual heat indicator: the glass is still hot. It shows above about 60°C and clears below about 55°C on their documents.Usually simple to fix
- Cooling fan runs on after cookingAll brandsA range cooker fan that keeps running for up to an hour after cooking is designed behaviour, and the maker of Stoves and Belling tells you not to switch the cooker off to stop it.Usually simple to fix
- E1 or E2BellingOne published row, one meaning. Belling give E1 and E2 together as the over-heat indicator: remove the pans and let the hob cool for about 30 minutes before using it again.Get it checked
- ER03StovesStoves publish ER03 as an obstruction indicator that sounds a continuous tone as well as showing on the display. Something is covering the touch controls, or the glass needs cleaning.Usually simple to fix
- Gas oven goes out after a minuteAll brandsA gas oven that lights and then shuts down within a minute is usually the flame supervision device, and three manufacturers publish the same sixty-second answer.Get it checked
- ER03BellingBelling list ER03 as an information code rather than a fault: something is covering the touch control area. Remove it, clean the glass, and the hob works normally again.Usually simple to fix
- U400All brandsA 400-family code means the cooker has been connected to the wrong supply or wired incorrectly. Five badges from four manufacturers publish a version of it, and it appears at installation.Get it checked
- E2StovesStoves publish E2 as an over-heat indicator on current guides and as overheating of the induction coil on the 2022 manual. Remove the pans and let the hob cool for about 30 minutes.Get it checked
- LOBellingLO is the hob child lock, released by holding the padlock key for a few seconds, and it is not the padlock on the oven timer. Two locks on one cooker, cleared two ways.Usually simple to fix
- How to isolate a range cookerAll brandsAn electric or dual fuel range cooker has no plug: five manufacturers describe a wall switch near but not above the cooker on a 30 or 32 amp circuit. All-gas ranges are the exception.Usually simple to fix
- Hob turns itself off after a long timeBellingNot a fault. Belling publish a maximum operating time for every power level as a safety feature, from six hours at level one to ninety minutes at level nine.Usually simple to fix
- E3 or E4BellingBelling send you outside the manufacturer for this one: the supply voltage may be too high or too low. Switch the cooker off at the wall and contact your electricity board.Get it checked
- Gas grill safety noticeNew WorldAn open safety programme covers four New World 100cm gas range cookers. Used with the grill door closed they can produce extremely dangerous levels of carbon monoxide.Stop — call an engineer
- SHOSmegNot a fault at all. The oven is in showroom mode, so the control panel works and no heating is possible. Smeg publish how to switch it off.Usually simple to fix
- U400SmegSmeg publish six words for this: wrong connection, connect the equipment properly. On a hardwired range cooker that means an electrician rather than anything you can do.Get it checked
- E2SmegOverheating of the inductor on the hob, but E2 is also in Smeg’s pyrolytic oven list. Which display it is on changes the answer completely.Get it checked
- No published code tableNew WorldNew World is back with Glen Dimplex and has a live site again, but it publishes no code list, and cookers made under the five-year licence are another manufacturer’s problem.Usually simple to fix
- Er03SmegA knob or button is being read as held on. On these knob-operated range cookers that usually means a knob kept turned to A too long. Release it, then clean the hob as Smeg say.Usually simple to fix
Symptoms
No code on the display? Start from what it is doing.
Cooker keeps tripping the electrics
A cooker that trips the breaker is reporting a real electrical fault, and which function trips it usually identifies the part in one test.Smeg oven symbols and what they mean
Smeg put their function symbols on a knob rather than a screen, and use one symbol set across ovens and range cookers. Two of them are not functions at all.
How range cookers fault codes work
Start with the part rather than the badge, because a range cooker is the one appliance in this house that is really two or three appliances bolted together, and they do not all speak.
Across every manufacturer we researched — Glen Dimplex, Rangemaster and Falcon, Leisure, Smeg and AGA — the number of published fault codes on the gas side is zero. Not a short list. None. And with the single exception of Smeg's pyrolytic ovens, none of them publish an oven code table either, including on multifunction ovens with electronic programmers. What that leaves is the induction hob, which is where essentially every range cooker code in this category comes from. So the split is by zone rather than by brand: one dual-fuel cooker can show induction codes on the hob and have a gas oven that has never been able to report anything. If you are hunting for the meaning of a code on the oven display, the honest answer is usually that your manufacturer has not published one.
Then the badge, and here range cookers are worse than the rest of this site rather than better. Stoves, Belling and New World are one manufacturing platform — the engineering tables in their documents are character-identical — and yet the code tables they actually publish disagree with each other on which codes exist and what the residual heat threshold is. Falcon and Rangemaster are not similar, they are the same documents: Falcon guides are served from Rangemaster's own website, carry the same internal document numbers, and contain the same text down to the shared typos. Leisure is not part of that group at all; it belongs to Beko. And a brand that shares a platform does not necessarily share a code list, which is why each brand page here is built from that brand's own documents rather than from its sibling's.
There is a second axis that catches people, and it is the age of your manual rather than the name on the front. Glen Dimplex publish two incompatible tables: their 2022-generation documents carry ER21, ER400, E2, E6, E8 and ER03, while the 2025-generation documents drop E6 and E8 entirely and add E3, E4 and LO. Rangemaster do the same thing between their owner-facing and service-audience guides, where E5 and EA mean different things depending on which one you have. Look up a code against the wrong generation of table and you get a confident, wrong answer. Every page here tells you which document it is quoting.
The most useful thing on this page is not a code at all. It is that a range cooker oven which will not turn on is usually a clock that has not been set. Three of the manufacturers say so in their own words — if the timer display is flashing, or the programmer is sitting in Auto rather than manual, the main oven will refuse to heat and nothing will tell you why. Add a cooling fan that runs for about an hour after cooking, a gas oven that shuts itself down within sixty seconds if the power has just been off, and an induction hob that turns itself off after a published number of hours, and you have most of what gets reported as a breakdown in this category. All four are the appliance working.
Finally, isolation, because the standard advice does not apply. A full-width range cooker has no plug. It is hardwired to a dedicated thirty or thirty-two amp circuit and switched at a wall switch that is deliberately sited near the cooker but not directly above it, so that you are not reaching over a hot hob in an emergency. If your cooker is dual fuel it is a two-trade appliance: the gas side is legally restricted to Gas Safe registered engineers in Great Britain, and the electrical side is notifiable work under Part P. Both manufacturers who address it put those two requirements in the same paragraph, and one of them makes correct installation by a registered person a condition of the warranty.