Hob Zone cut outwhat to check
A zone that stops part way through cooking has usually protected itself from overheating. That includes the touch controls, which sit under the glass at the front.
Before you start
What Zone cut out means
A zone that has been working and then quietly stops is most often overheat protection rather than a failure, and there are two separate things that overheat on an induction hob. The obvious one is the zone itself, after a long session on high or a pan boiled dry. The less obvious one is the electronics, and Lamona publish the mechanism unusually clearly: the touch controls sit under the glass at the front of the hob, and a large pan on a front zone heats them directly.
Their own advice is to use the back zones for large pans wherever possible so that the sensor keys are not heated too much, and they name the consequence as the touch control cutting out. That is a usage remedy rather than a repair, and it explains a pattern people find baffling — the hob works perfectly for an hour and then the controls stop responding, always when something big is on the front.
Ventilation is the other half of it. An induction hob needs an air path, usually a gap under the worktop or at the back of the cabinet, and a drawer unit packed tight underneath or a solid plinth blocking the intake will cause cut-outs that look intermittent and random. If yours started after a kitchen change rather than gradually, that is where to look. Persistent cut-outs on a hob that is properly ventilated and used sensibly are worth an engineer.
What causes it
| Cause | What is actually happening | How likely |
|---|---|---|
| Touch controls overheated by a pan on a front zone | Lamona publish this directly and recommend using back zones for large pans. Explains cut-outs that only happen with big pans at the front. | Common |
| Zone overheat protection after a long high-power session | Or a pan boiled dry. The hob backs off deliberately and recovers on its own. | Common |
| Ventilation blocked under the hob | A packed drawer, a solid plinth or a tight cabinet. Frequently starts after a kitchen alteration rather than gradually. | Occasional |
| Cooling fan blocked or failing | Lamona publish a code for a fan fault where the suction opening is blocked or covered, or the fan is defective. | Occasional |
What to try yourself
Let it cool completely and try again. If it works normally afterwards, it was protection rather than a failure.
Notice the pattern. If it only happens with a big pan on a front zone, you have your answer — move large pans to the back.
Check what is under the hob. Open the drawer or cupboard beneath and look for anything packed against the underside of the appliance.
Check the air path is not blocked at the plinth or the back of the cabinet. This is the thing that changes when a kitchen is altered.
If it cuts out with a clear air path and sensible pan placement, book an engineer. At that point it is the fan or the electronics rather than how it is being used.
Get a qualified appliance engineer to look at your hob
We do not pass enquiries to a repair firm, so there is no form here. When you book a qualified appliance engineer, tell them the make, the model and the exact code or message on the display, and ask whether they carry parts for this make — that is what turns one visit into a repair rather than a quote.
What it costs to fix
Typical repair cost
£0–£220
Time on site
30 minutes
Nothing if it is placement or ventilation. A cooling fan replaced is typically £120 to £220. Control electronics are frequently more than the hob is worth on a mid-range model.
Typical UK prices including parts and labour, updated September 2026. Your quote may differ.
Own this appliance and had this code? . Nothing is published until a person has read it.
Related hob fault codes
- HUsually simple to fixThe zone is still hot. Hotpoint and Rangemaster publish the threshold — lit until the glass is below 60 degrees — and Lamona warn it can still burn you after it goes out.Related: same brand
- Pan not detectedUsually simple to fixA zone that flashes and will not heat usually cannot find your pan. Induction needs a ferrous base, big enough for the zone and flat against the glass.Related: same brand
- U400Get it checkedThe hob is wired to the wrong supply. It appears within days of installation, and the person to call is the electrician rather than the appliance manufacturer.Related: same brand
- dEUsually simple to fixDemo mode. The hob lights up, responds to touch and never heats anything, because it is set up for a showroom floor.Related: same brand
Related guides
Technical review
Not reviewed by an engineer
No engineer has read this page. Severity follows what the manufacturer publishes, and we would rather tell you that than let a byline imply a sign-off.
Sources and how we verified this
We establish the facts from the sources below and then write the explanation ourselves. We do not copy manufacturer wording and we do not host their manuals.
- Manufacturer technical and service documentation
This page has not been reviewed by an engineer, and we would rather tell you that than imply otherwise. The severity rating follows what the manufacturer publishes: where they say isolate the appliance and call someone, so do we.