AEG E4 status codewhat it means
Overheating protection operating, not a breakdown. It clears itself as the hob cools, and AEG warn that the residual heat H may stay on afterwards.
Before you start
What E4 means
AEG classify this as the overheating protection being in operation, which is a different statement from the hob having overheated and failed. The zone has backed itself off because the electronics under the glass got hotter than they should, and it will come back on its own. The long forms — E401 through E403, E421 through E423, and E431 through E433 — all carry the same meaning. This is the most misread code AEG publish, and the reason is buried in their own remedy text.
They note that the error code should disappear once the hob cools down, and then add in brackets that the residual heat indicator H can stay for a while. So the sequence an owner sees is that the E4 goes, and an H stays behind, and it looks like the fault half-cleared into a different fault. It did not. Those are two separate normal displays and neither of them is a repair.
Two things cause the underlying heat. One is the cookware, and AEG treat it as the first thing to check: a pan the hob struggles with makes the coil work harder than it should. The other is the installation, and this is the one people miss, because an induction hob dumps a real amount of heat into the cavity below it and needs the ventilation gaps the instructions specify. A hob boxed into a tight cutout, or sat over a drawer full of tea towels, or installed above an appliance that is itself warm, will meet this code repeatedly on ordinary cooking.
What causes it
| Cause | What is actually happening | How likely |
|---|---|---|
| A long session on a high setting | The ordinary and benign case. Boil-dry, a large pan held on boost, or several zones on hard together will all get the electronics hot enough to trigger it. | Common |
| Unsuitable cookware | AEG name it as a cause and give the test: a magnet should stick firmly to the base. A poor match makes the coil work harder for the same amount of heat in the pan. | Common |
| Not enough ventilation under the hob | The installation-side cause, and the one that makes it keep happening. Induction electronics are cooled by air moving through the cavity, and the manual specifies gaps for a reason. | Occasional |
What to try yourself
Switch the hob off and let it cool. AEG state the code clears itself once the temperature comes down — you do not have to do anything to it.
Expect an H to remain after the E4 has gone. AEG publish this specifically. It is the residual heat indicator, not a second fault.
Check your pan with a magnet while you wait. If it does not grip the base firmly, that pan is part of the reason the hob got hot.
If it still will not clear once cold, disconnect the hob from the supply for at least 30 seconds and reconnect. On a built-in hob AEG accept using the RCD or the circuit breaker for this.
If it happens repeatedly on normal cooking, look at what is under the hob rather than at the hob. Blocked ventilation is the usual answer, and it needs the installation checking rather than a repair.
Do not be tempted to cut extra holes or remove a shelf yourself to improve airflow. The gaps are specified in the installation instructions and getting them wrong in the other direction causes its own problems.
Get a qualified appliance engineer to look at your AEG E4
We do not pass enquiries to a repair firm, so there is no form here. When you book a qualified appliance engineer, tell them the make, the model and the exact code or message on the display, and ask whether they carry parts for this make — that is what turns one visit into a repair rather than a quote.
What it costs to fix
Typical repair cost
£0
Time on site
30 minutes
Nothing for the code itself — it is a protective function clearing on its own. A repeat pattern may cost an installer’s visit to correct the ventilation, but that is the cabinetry rather than the hob.
Typical UK prices including parts and labour, updated September 2026. Your quote may differ.
Own this appliance and had this code? . Nothing is published until a person has read it.
Related AEG fault codes
- E7Get it checkedTwo different faults on one code, split by how old the hob is. On a modern one it is the cooling fan and you can look at it; before 2010 it is the power board.Related: overheating and cooling
- FUsually simple to fixOn an induction hob this is about the pan, and AEG say whether it is steady or flashing changes the answer. Steady on a new hob means the installation.Related: same brand
- Burner will not stay alightGet it checkedThe flame dies when you let go of the knob. AEG give two causes and only one is yours: a dirty or misplaced burner cap, or a failed thermocouple.Related: same brand
- E3Get it checkedThe hob is seeing 400 volts. AEG name the person to ring and it is not their service line — it is the qualified electrician who installed it.Related: same brand
- LUsually simple to fixThe panel is locked, and AEG publish two different locks that both show L. One re-arms itself every time you switch off, which is why hobs seem to lock themselves.Related: same brand
- E8Get it checkedAsk one question first: has this hob ever worked? A new install means a missing phase in the wiring. A hob that worked and stopped means the electronics.Related: same brand
Own an AEG hob? Save it and its codes come first next time.
Related guides
Common questions about AEG E4
Why did an H appear after the E4 cleared?
Because they are two different displays and AEG expect it. Their remedy text says the code should disappear once the hob cools, and adds that the residual heat indicator H can stay for a while afterwards. The H is the glass still being hot, which it will be.
It keeps coming back. Is the hob failing?
Not necessarily, and repeated E4 on ordinary cooking usually points at the installation rather than the appliance. An induction hob needs the ventilation clearances in its instructions, and a tight cutout or a packed drawer underneath will produce this code again and again on a perfectly healthy hob.
Do I need to call anyone?
Not for a one-off. It is the protection working. If it happens on every use, get whoever fitted the hob to check it against the installation instructions before you book a repair, because a service engineer is likely to tell you the same thing and charge for the visit.
Technical review
Not reviewed by an engineer
No engineer has read this page. Severity follows what the manufacturer publishes, and we would rather tell you that than let a byline imply a sign-off.
Sources and how we verified this
We establish the facts from the sources below and then write the explanation ourselves. We do not copy manufacturer wording and we do not host their manuals.
- Manufacturer support portal
This page has not been reviewed by an engineer, and we would rather tell you that than imply otherwise. The severity rating follows what the manufacturer publishes: where they say isolate the appliance and call someone, so do we.