AEG E7 fault codewhat it means and how to fix it
Two different faults on one code, split by how old the hob is. On a modern one it is the cooling fan and you can look at it; before 2010 it is the power board.
Take care
What E7 means
AEG publish something here that nobody else in this category does, and it changes both what you should do and what it will cost. Their stated cause for E7 is a cooling fan error in newer appliances and a power board error in appliances made before 2010. One code, two unrelated components, and the deciding factor is the manufacture date rather than anything you can see on the display.
On a newer hob this is worth your time, because the fan cools the electronics under the glass by moving air through the cabinet, and the commonest reason it reports a problem is that something is stopping it. AEG's own first step reflects that: open the drawer under the hob and check nothing is blocking the fan. A drawer packed to the top, a baking tray stood on edge, or a hob installed with less clearance than the instructions ask for will all do it, and none of those needs an engineer.
On a hob made before 2010 the same display means the power board, which is the main control electronics, and there is nothing an owner can do about it. That is also where the economics turn: a power board on a hob of that age will often cost a meaningful fraction of a new hob, and a fifteen-year-old induction hob may not be worth the part. Worth knowing before you book, rather than after.
What causes it
| Cause | What is actually happening | How likely |
|---|---|---|
| Something blocking the cooling fan | The first thing AEG tell you to check, and the one you can fix. The fan draws air through the cavity under the hob, and a full drawer or a tight installation starves it. | Common |
| The cooling fan itself failing | On a newer hob, if nothing is blocking it. A fan that has seized or worn out is a real repair but a modest one as hob repairs go. | Occasional |
| Power board failure on a pre-2010 hob | AEG’s published second meaning. Same code, different component, and not an owner repair — nor necessarily an economic one at that age. | Occasional |
What to try yourself
Work out roughly how old the hob is before anything else. AEG split this code at 2010, and which side of that line you are on decides whether the next steps are worth doing.
Open the drawer or cupboard under the hob and look for anything pressed up against the underside of it. This is AEG’s own first instruction.
Clear the space and leave it clear. Air has to move through that cavity, and a drawer that is full to the top when closed is a common cause even though it looks fine when open.
Disconnect the hob from the supply for at least 30 seconds and reconnect it. On a built-in hob use the RCD or the circuit breaker.
If the code returns, book an engineer and tell them the age of the hob and the code. That one sentence lets them bring the right part.
Get a qualified appliance engineer to look at your AEG E7
We do not pass enquiries to a repair firm, so there is no form here. When you book a qualified appliance engineer, tell them the make, the model and the exact code or message on the display, and ask whether they carry parts for this make — that is what turns one visit into a repair rather than a quote.
What it costs to fix
Typical repair cost
£110–£300
Time on site
1h 15m
A cooling fan replacement sits at the lower end. A power board on a pre-2010 hob sits at the top of the range and beyond, which is why the age split matters before you commit to a visit.
Typical UK prices including parts and labour, updated September 2026. Your quote may differ.
Own this appliance and had this code? . Nothing is published until a person has read it.
Related AEG fault codes
- E4Usually simple to fixOverheating protection operating, not a breakdown. It clears itself as the hob cools, and AEG warn that the residual heat H may stay on afterwards.Related: overheating and cooling
- FUsually simple to fixOn an induction hob this is about the pan, and AEG say whether it is steady or flashing changes the answer. Steady on a new hob means the installation.Related: same brand
- Burner will not stay alightGet it checkedThe flame dies when you let go of the knob. AEG give two causes and only one is yours: a dirty or misplaced burner cap, or a failed thermocouple.Related: same brand
- E3Get it checkedThe hob is seeing 400 volts. AEG name the person to ring and it is not their service line — it is the qualified electrician who installed it.Related: same brand
- LUsually simple to fixThe panel is locked, and AEG publish two different locks that both show L. One re-arms itself every time you switch off, which is why hobs seem to lock themselves.Related: same brand
- E8Get it checkedAsk one question first: has this hob ever worked? A new install means a missing phase in the wiring. A hob that worked and stopped means the electronics.Related: same brand
Own an AEG hob? Save it and its codes come first next time.
Related guides
Common questions about AEG E7
How do I tell which of the two faults I have?
By the age of the hob, because that is the only thing AEG give you. Before 2010 it is the power board, after that it is the cooling fan. If you do not know the age, the rating plate on the underside of the hob carries the model and serial number, and the service line can date it from that.
Is a blocked drawer really enough to cause this?
Yes, and AEG treat it as the first thing to rule out. Induction electronics run hot and are cooled by air moving through the cabinet under the glass. If that air cannot move, the fan circuit reports a problem even though the fan itself is fine.
Is an old hob worth repairing?
Often not, if it is the power board. On a hob made before 2010 the board plus a visit can approach the price of a new mid-range induction hob, and the rest of the appliance is the same age. A fan on a newer hob is a much better proposition.
Technical review
Not reviewed by an engineer
No engineer has read this page. Severity follows what the manufacturer publishes, and we would rather tell you that than let a byline imply a sign-off.
Sources and how we verified this
We establish the facts from the sources below and then write the explanation ourselves. We do not copy manufacturer wording and we do not host their manuals.
- Manufacturer support portal
This page has not been reviewed by an engineer, and we would rather tell you that than imply otherwise. The severity rating follows what the manufacturer publishes: where they say isolate the appliance and call someone, so do we.