AEG F fault codewhat it means and how to fix it
On an induction hob this is about the pan, and AEG say whether it is steady or flashing changes the answer. Steady on a new hob means the installation.
Before you start
What F means
A plain F on an AEG induction hob means the hob has not registered the cookware, or the cookware has been removed from the zone. It is not a fault. What makes AEG's version of this worth reading is a distinction nobody else publishes: they separate a constant F from a flashing one, and they map each to a different cause. A constant F on a hob that has only just been installed sends you back to the approved installer to double-check it has been installed correctly. A flashing F on a hob you have had a while sends you to the cookware. That is a genuinely useful split, because it catches the case where an owner spends a fortnight buying new pans for a hob that was wired wrong. AEG give six checks for the cookware case and they are more specific than the usual advice to use induction pans. Magnet test the base. Make sure the pan is neither too big nor too small for the zone. Keep the hob and the pans dry. Only heat the zone you are using. Put the pan on before you turn the zone on. And turn the zone off before you take the pan off.
After those, try the hob off at the mains for thirty seconds, and if the F is still there AEG say it could indicate a connection fault and the appliance will need to be inspected by a qualified electrician. On materials, be careful with that same article. Under the magnet test it says the function does not work with cast iron and non-stick cookware, e.g. with a ceramic coating, and recommends enamelled steel. That sentence is about SenseBoil, the boil-detection function the article also covers, and it is lifted from the SenseBoil hints in the user manuals. For ordinary induction heating AEG say the opposite: their cookware guide lists cast iron as correct alongside steel, enamelled steel, stainless steel and multi-layer bases, calls it by far the best induction performer, and puts aluminium, copper, brass, glass, ceramic and porcelain on the not-correct list. A cast iron pan will not give you an F. There is a timer behind this too.
AEG publish that when incorrect cookware is used the F appears and the cooking zone deactivates automatically after two minutes, which is why a zone can seem to give up on its own; the user manuals add a third trigger to the no-pan and wrong-pan cases, a pan whose base is smaller than the minimum diameter for that zone. One caution. AEG also publish a line saying that if the hob shows F together with a digit — F3, for example — they recommend booking a service engineer, and that contradicts their own SenseBoil articles where F2 and F3 are messages about what is in the pot. We record both rather than choosing, because on a SenseBoil hob the second reading is much more likely and paying for a visit to be told the pan had too much water in it would be a poor outcome.
What causes it
| Cause | What is actually happening | How likely |
|---|---|---|
| The pan is not induction compatible | The commonest case. AEG’s cookware guide: correct is cast iron, steel, enamelled steel, stainless steel and a properly marked multi-layer base; not correct is aluminium, copper, brass, glass, ceramic and porcelain. A magnet should grip the base firmly, and the base should be as thick and flat as possible. | Common |
| The pan is the wrong size for the zone | Too small and the zone cannot see it at all; too large and it can sit across the boundary. AEG list size as one of their six checks. | Common |
| The pan was lifted while the zone was running | AEG’s stated second meaning — the cookware has been removed from the zone. Their advice is to turn the zone off before lifting the pan. | Common |
| The hob has been installed incorrectly | The case AEG single out with the steady-versus-flashing rule. A constant F on a newly installed hob is one to take back to the installer rather than to solve with new pans. | Occasional |
What to try yourself
Look at whether the F is steady or flashing. AEG treat these as different messages and it changes everything that follows.
If it is constant and the hob is newly installed, stop and go back to the installer. AEG ask for the installation to be double-checked in that case rather than the cookware.
If it is flashing, hold a magnet to the base of the pan. It should grip firmly. Cast iron, steel, enamelled and stainless steel all work; aluminium, copper, glass and ceramic do not, whatever the coating on top of them says.
Check the pan suits the zone. Too small and the zone cannot detect it; a base that only touches at the edges because it has warped will do the same.
Dry the hob and the base of the pan, put the pan on the zone first, then turn the zone on. AEG give that order deliberately.
Expect the zone to switch itself off if you leave an unsuitable pan on it. AEG publish two minutes as the point at which it deactivates.
Get a qualified appliance engineer to look at your AEG F
We do not pass enquiries to a repair firm, so there is no form here. When you book a qualified appliance engineer, tell them the make, the model and the exact code or message on the display, and ask whether they carry parts for this make — that is what turns one visit into a repair rather than a quote.
What it costs to fix
Typical repair cost
£0
Time on site
10 minutes
Nothing in the ordinary case — it is a detection message, not a fault. The exception is a constant F on a new installation, where the cost belongs to whoever wired it.
Typical UK prices including parts and labour, updated September 2026. Your quote may differ.
Own this appliance and had this code? . Nothing is published until a person has read it.
Related AEG fault codes
- E4Usually simple to fixOverheating protection operating, not a breakdown. It clears itself as the hob cools, and AEG warn that the residual heat H may stay on afterwards.Related: same brand
- Burner will not stay alightGet it checkedThe flame dies when you let go of the knob. AEG give two causes and only one is yours: a dirty or misplaced burner cap, or a failed thermocouple.Related: same brand
- E3Get it checkedThe hob is seeing 400 volts. AEG name the person to ring and it is not their service line — it is the qualified electrician who installed it.Related: same brand
- LUsually simple to fixThe panel is locked, and AEG publish two different locks that both show L. One re-arms itself every time you switch off, which is why hobs seem to lock themselves.Related: same brand
- E8Get it checkedAsk one question first: has this hob ever worked? A new install means a missing phase in the wiring. A hob that worked and stopped means the electronics.Related: same brand
- Flashing between two numbersUsually simple to fixPower management, not a malfunction. Two zones on one side share a supply, and the display is showing you what you asked for and what you are getting.Related: same brand
Own an AEG hob? Save it and its codes come first next time.
Related guides
Common questions about AEG F
AEG’s F page says the function does not work with cast iron. Does that mean my cast iron pan is the problem?
No. That line is about SenseBoil, the automatic boil-detection function, and it is copied from the SenseBoil hints in the user manuals, where it sits under a heading that makes the context clear. For induction heating itself AEG list cast iron as correct cookware and describe it as by far the best induction performer. If a cast iron pan is giving you an F, look at the base being flat and clean, the pan being centred and big enough for the zone, or the installation — not the material.
What does the user manual say about F?
The troubleshooting table in AEG’s induction manuals gives three causes for the pan symbol: there is no cookware on the zone, the cookware is unsuitable, or the diameter of the bottom of the cookware is too small for the zone, with the minimum diameters listed under technical data. A separate row covers a letter and a number: an error in the hob, switch off and on after thirty seconds, then disconnect from the supply for thirty seconds, then the Authorised Service Centre.
The zone switched itself off after a couple of minutes.
That is documented behaviour rather than a fault. AEG publish that when incorrect cookware is used the F symbol appears and the cooking zone deactivates automatically after two minutes.
What about F with a number after it?
It depends on the hob and AEG are not consistent here. Their general induction article recommends booking an engineer for F plus a digit, but on a SenseBoil hob F2 and F3 are published as messages about the contents of the pot — too little or too much water, or a liquid other than water. If you have SenseBoil, read those first before booking anything.
Could F mean something else entirely?
Yes, on other appliance types under the same badge. On an AEG electronic gas hob F means one or more burners could not be ignited and has its own reset sequence. This page is about induction hobs.
Technical review
Not reviewed by an engineer
No engineer has read this page. Severity follows what the manufacturer publishes, and we would rather tell you that than let a byline imply a sign-off.
Sources and how we verified this
We establish the facts from the sources below and then write the explanation ourselves. We do not copy manufacturer wording and we do not host their manuals.
- Manufacturer support portal
This page has not been reviewed by an engineer, and we would rather tell you that than imply otherwise. The severity rating follows what the manufacturer publishes: where they say isolate the appliance and call someone, so do we.