AEG E9 fault codewhat it means and how to fix it
A fault in the electronic module. AEG give you one power cycle to try, and if it comes back it is a board rather than a glitch.
Take care
What E9 means
AEG describe E9 as a potential issue with the circuit board, and elsewhere as a fault in the electronic module. It is the plainest of their fault codes in the sense that there is no installation reading of it and no correct-behaviour reading of it — the control electronics have reported something wrong with themselves. The one thing worth doing is the power cycle, and it is worth doing properly rather than by tapping the on button.
AEG specify disconnecting the hob from the electricity supply for at least 30 seconds, and on a built-in hob they accept the RCD or the circuit breaker as the isolation point, because there is no plug to pull. Thirty seconds matters: the boards hold enough charge to keep their state alive through a brief interruption, so a quick flick of the switch is not the same test. If the code clears and does not return, it was a transient and there is nothing to fix. If it returns, book a technician, because there is no second thing for an owner to try.
Before you do, one piece of arithmetic is worth doing, because it is the same one that applies to any hob with a board fault. A control board plus a visit is a substantial share of the price of a new induction hob, and if the appliance is well into its second decade the sensible answer may be replacement. AEG will not tell you that, and neither will the engineer who quotes for the part, so it is worth asking what the board costs before agreeing to order one.
What causes it
| Cause | What is actually happening | How likely |
|---|---|---|
| A fault in the electronic module | AEG’s own wording. The control board has detected a condition it cannot recover from and has stopped rather than continue. | Common |
| A transient upset from a supply event | A brownout or a spike can leave the electronics in a stuck state that a proper power cycle clears. This is why AEG give the reset before the service booking. | Occasional |
| Heat or moisture damage to the board | A hob that has been repeatedly overheating, or one that has had liquid get past the glass seal, can end up here. Usually there is a history of other symptoms first. | Rare |
What to try yourself
Disconnect the hob from the electricity supply for at least 30 seconds. On a built-in hob there is no plug, so use the cooker switch on the wall, or the RCD or breaker in the consumer unit — AEG accept that.
Give it the full 30 seconds rather than flicking the switch. The boards hold charge, and a brief interruption does not reset them.
Reconnect and try the hob normally. If the code has gone and stays gone, it was a transient.
If it comes straight back, stop and book a technician. There is no second reset that works and nothing behind the glass an owner should be opening.
AEG say not to use the hob until the issue has been fully resolved, and to disconnect it and not reconnect it until you are certain it is safe. Leave it off at the cooker switch while you wait.Ask what the board costs before agreeing to the repair, and weigh it against the age of the hob.
Get a qualified appliance engineer to look at your AEG E9
We do not pass enquiries to a repair firm, so there is no form here. When you book a qualified appliance engineer, tell them the make, the model and the exact code or message on the display, and ask whether they carry parts for this make — that is what turns one visit into a repair rather than a quote.
What it costs to fix
Typical repair cost
£140–£320
Time on site
1h 10m
A control board plus labour. The wide range reflects how much the part varies between a basic four-zone hob and a flex-zone model — ask for the part price before agreeing, because it decides whether repair makes sense.
Typical UK prices including parts and labour, updated September 2026. Your quote may differ.
Own this appliance and had this code? . Nothing is published until a person has read it.
Related AEG fault codes
- FUsually simple to fixOn an induction hob this is about the pan, and AEG say whether it is steady or flashing changes the answer. Steady on a new hob means the installation.Related: same brand
- E4Usually simple to fixOverheating protection operating, not a breakdown. It clears itself as the hob cools, and AEG warn that the residual heat H may stay on afterwards.Related: same brand
- Burner will not stay alightGet it checkedThe flame dies when you let go of the knob. AEG give two causes and only one is yours: a dirty or misplaced burner cap, or a failed thermocouple.Related: same brand
- E3Get it checkedThe hob is seeing 400 volts. AEG name the person to ring and it is not their service line — it is the qualified electrician who installed it.Related: same brand
- LUsually simple to fixThe panel is locked, and AEG publish two different locks that both show L. One re-arms itself every time you switch off, which is why hobs seem to lock themselves.Related: same brand
- E8Get it checkedAsk one question first: has this hob ever worked? A new install means a missing phase in the wiring. A hob that worked and stopped means the electronics.Related: same brand
Own an AEG hob? Save it and its codes come first next time.
Related guides
Common questions about AEG E9
Why 30 seconds specifically?
Because that is what AEG publish, and there is a reason behind it. The control electronics hold enough residual charge to survive a momentary break in supply, so a quick switch off and on leaves them in the same state they were already in. Thirty seconds lets them discharge and start clean.
There is no plug. How do I disconnect it?
A hob is wired to a cooker circuit rather than a socket on nearly every installation. The switch is usually on the wall to one side of the hob, above the worktop. If you cannot find one, the circuit breaker or RCD in the consumer unit does the same job and AEG say so explicitly for built-in appliances.
Is it worth repairing?
It depends on the age. A control board and a visit is a real fraction of a new induction hob, and on an appliance over about ten years old the rest of it is the same age as the part that failed. Get the price of the board before committing.
My hob shows E0 or E1, or E011, E012 or E013. Is that the same thing?
AEG publish those separately but say the same about them: they indicate a fault with the electronics on integrated ceramic and induction hobs, the remedy is the same thirty-second disconnection at the RCD, and if it continues it is a service call. Treat them as this page.
Technical review
Not reviewed by an engineer
No engineer has read this page. Severity follows what the manufacturer publishes, and we would rather tell you that than let a byline imply a sign-off.
Sources and how we verified this
We establish the facts from the sources below and then write the explanation ourselves. We do not copy manufacturer wording and we do not host their manuals.
- Manufacturer support portal
This page has not been reviewed by an engineer, and we would rather tell you that than imply otherwise. The severity rating follows what the manufacturer publishes: where they say isolate the appliance and call someone, so do we.