Samsung LC fault codewhat it means and how to fix it
Leak detected. Samsung publish three different answers to this code across three official UK sources, and only one of them isolates the machine.
Stop — this needs an engineer
Get a qualified appliance engineer to look at your Samsung LC
We do not pass enquiries to a repair firm, so there is no form here. When you book a qualified appliance engineer, tell them the make, the model and the exact code or message on the display, and ask whether they carry parts for this make — that is what turns one visit into a repair rather than a quote.
What LC means
LC means the machine has detected a leak. Samsung’s UK code list describes what you will see: the machine stops or will not start, immediately begins draining continuously while beeping, and will not accept a new programme; water may be visible under or around the unit, or there may be a damp, steamy smell. The continuous draining is the anti-flood response doing its job. The hard part of this page is not explaining the fault but deciding which of Samsung’s own instructions to give you, because there are three, all official, all Samsung UK, and they do not agree. The UK-hosted manuals say to close the water supply valve, go to your home’s circuit breaker panel, set the dishwasher’s breaker to off, and contact the installer to repair.
Samsung’s general code list says something quite different: inspect the door area, confirm only dishwasher detergent was used, remove debris from the door gasket and bottom lip, make sure racks or tall items are not distorting the door seal, check the toe-kick area for puddles, and verify the sink or disposal is not backing water into the machine. And Samsung’s page for the three water codes goes further still, suggesting you tighten the water supply hose and temporarily apply insulation tape to a holed hose, alongside levelling a machine that leans forward, wiping out an overfilled rinse-aid dispenser and cleaning the filter.
Only the manual isolates the appliance. Taping a leaking hose on a machine plumbed into the mains under a worktop is not something we are prepared to put in front of a reader as a fix, so we publish the manual wording as the instruction and treat the rest as background on where the water may be coming from. Samsung do carry two useful lines at the top of the code list: if overflow occurs, turn off the main water supply before contacting them, and any water in the base pan from an overfill or small leak should be removed before the dishwasher is restarted — which, on a machine under a worktop, is an engineer’s job rather than a reason to tip it.
What causes it
| Cause | What is actually happening | How likely |
|---|---|---|
| Internal hose or connection leaking | Samsung name a loose supply hose connection, a hole in the supply or drain hose and worn drain-pump gaskets. Water escaping inside the cabinet reaches the base where the sensor detects it. The most common cause and often an inexpensive part. | Common |
| Door gasket damaged or obstructed | Samsung point at this specifically, including debris on the seal and tall items in the racks distorting the door as it closes. | Common |
| Washing-up liquid used in the machine | Samsung ask you to confirm only dishwasher detergent was used. Heavy foam can climb over the tub and reach the base, which reads as a leak. | Occasional |
| Sink or waste disposal backing water in | Another Samsung check. Water coming back up the drain hose from a blocked shared waste rather than escaping from the machine. | Occasional |
| Machine leaning forward | Samsung’s water-codes page lists a dishwasher leaning forward as a leak cause and has you level it on its three or four adjustable feet. Water pools at the door instead of the sump. | Occasional |
| Rinse-aid dispenser overfilled or damaged | Samsung list an excessive amount of rinse aid in the dispenser and a damaged dispenser. Their remedy for the first is to wipe the spilt rinse aid out with a wet towel; the second is a service part. | Occasional |
| Tub or sump leaking | A split or failed seal at the base — Samsung’s "defective TUB", routed straight to service. The serious end, and it has to be found before it can be priced. | Occasional |
Can you fix it yourself?
Stop — this needs an engineer
What it costs to fix
Typical repair cost
£90–£300
Around £90 to £180 for a hose, gasket or joint. Tub or sump work runs higher, and on an older model parts availability may decide it for you.
Typical UK prices including parts and labour, updated September 2026. Your quote may differ.
Own this appliance and had this code? . Nothing is published until a person has read it.
Related Samsung fault codes
- 5CGet it checkedDrain fault. Samsung describe the detection precisely — the control expected the water level to fall and saw no change.Related: same brand
- 4CGet it checkedWater supply check. Samsung’s checks are the valve, the supply and a frozen or clogged inlet, and their manuals give the pressure and temperature the supply has to meet.Related: same brand
- HCGet it checkedHigh temperature check. Samsung’s first instruction is a test cycle with the machine empty, and the breaker only comes into it if the code returns.Related: same brand
- 3CGet it checkedThe machine fills but never starts washing. Ignore the American results for this one — they describe a different fault entirely.Related: same brand
- 9C1Get it checkedThe machine has detected an abnormal voltage and put itself into protection mode. The fault is usually in the socket, not the dishwasher.Related: same brand
Own a Samsung dishwasher? Save it and its codes come first next time.
Related guides
Common questions about Samsung LC
Samsung’s website says to tape the hose. Should I?
No. That instruction is on Samsung’s page for the 5C, 4C and LC codes and we think it is wrong for a mains-fed appliance that runs unattended under a worktop. Samsung’s own manual for the same code says to close the water supply valve and switch the dishwasher’s breaker off. When a manufacturer contradicts itself, take the more cautious of the two.
What is the actual sequence?
Samsung’s manual wording: close the water supply valve, go to your consumer unit and switch the dishwasher’s breaker off, then contact the installer or a Samsung service centre. Water first, power second.
I have LE rather than LC. Different fault?
No. Samsung UK group them — their support page is titled for LC/LE among others, and treats the pair as one code. What Samsung have never said is that C formally replaced E, so we do not claim it either.
Nothing is on the floor. Can I ignore it?
No. The detection sits in the base of the machine so that it catches water before it reaches your kitchen. A dry floor is the system working, not evidence that it misfired.
My machine shows OC, not LC. Is that the same?
Not quite. OC is Samsung’s over-level code: the machine keeps filling, or is full of foam, and Samsung’s checks are detergent use, visible foam, filter cleanliness, kinks in the drain hose and whether the machine is sitting on the hose. They also have you check for standing water in the base — and if there is any, treat it as this page. Water in the base is the anti-flood system’s territory whatever code sits above it.
Is it worth repairing an older machine?
Ask about parts before you commit. Samsung UK still sell dishwashers, but the range turns over quickly and most machines showing this code are models no longer sold, so availability of a hose, gasket or tub part is worth confirming at the point of booking rather than after an engineer has diagnosed it.
Technical review
Not reviewed by an engineer
No engineer has read this page. Severity follows what the manufacturer publishes, and we would rather tell you that than let a byline imply a sign-off.
Sources and how we verified this
We establish the facts from the sources below and then write the explanation ourselves. We do not copy manufacturer wording and we do not host their manuals.
- Manufacturer technical and service documentation
- Manufacturer support portal
This page has not been reviewed by an engineer, and we would rather tell you that than imply otherwise. The severity rating follows what the manufacturer publishes: where they say isolate the appliance and call someone, so do we.