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Microwave Not heating but runningwhat to check

Get it checkedMicrowaveEvery type, including combination models. On a combination microwave the grill and the fan oven can keep working perfectly while the microwave function is dead, because they are separate systems.Last updated

The light is on, the turntable is going round and the food comes out cold. This is the classic microwave failure and none of it is an owner repair.

Take care

Some of this is safe to check yourself, but the repair itself is not. If the fault comes back after one reset, stop resetting it and get a qualified appliance engineer to look at the microwave properly. Whatever the fault turns out to be, leave the outer casing alone. A microwave holds a high-voltage capacitor that stays charged after the plug is out, so unplugging it does not make the inside of it safe.

Get a qualified appliance engineer to look at your microwave

We do not pass enquiries to a repair firm, so there is no form here. When you book a qualified appliance engineer, tell them the make, the model and the exact code or message on the display, and ask whether they carry parts for this make — that is what turns one visit into a repair rather than a quote.

What this means

Everything looks right and nothing gets warm. The manufacturers have a name for this presentation — Whirlpool’s service table lists it as "Oven seems working, food does not cook" — and it separates a microwave from every other appliance here, because the part that makes the heat is not a heating element you could reach and test. Microwave energy comes from a magnetron, and a magnetron needs several thousand volts to work. Getting there takes a small chain of parts: a transformer to step the mains up, a capacitor and a diode arranged to roughly double that voltage, and the magnetron itself.

Any one of those failing gives you exactly this symptom, because the rest of the appliance — the lamp, the fan, the turntable, the timer, the display — runs on ordinary mains voltage and carries on as though nothing has happened. Whirlpool’s own list of causes for it names a defective magnetron with a broken or shorted filament, a broken transformer earth wire, bad contact at the magnetron terminals, and a breakdown of the high-voltage diode, which they note gives a hum. That hum is worth knowing about: a microwave that has started making a loud buzz at the same time as it stopped heating is pointing at the diode or the capacitor rather than the magnetron.

What makes this fault different from a cold oven or a dishwasher that will not heat is that the diagnosis is genuinely not available to you. The parts are behind the cover, and the cover is the one place on this site where being careful is not enough, because the capacitor stores energy and keeps it after the appliance is unplugged.

What causes it

Causes of Not heating but running, most common first
CauseWhat is actually happeningHow likely
Magnetron has failedThe commonest single cause, and the one manufacturers list first. Filament broken or shorted to the body of the tube.Common
High-voltage diode has broken downNamed by Whirlpool with a distinctive symptom attached: it produces an audible hum while the food stays cold.Common
Capacitor or transformer no longer deliveringThe voltage-doubling pair sits between the mains and the tube, and a failure there starves the magnetron.Occasional
Poor connection at the magnetron terminalsListed as its own cause rather than as a variant of tube failure, and it is the cheapest of these to put right.Occasional
Long-term damage from running it emptyThe energy has nowhere to go with no load in the cavity, and repeated episodes shorten the life of the tube.Occasional

Can you fix it yourself?

What it costs to fix

Typical repair cost

£110–£220

Time on site

10 minutes

A magnetron is typically £40 to £90 as a part, and with a visit the job usually lands between £110 and £220. A diode or a capacitor is a cheaper part on the same labour.

Typical UK prices including parts and labour, updated September 2026. Your quote may differ.

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Common questions

Is a microwave that will not heat dangerous to use?

It is not producing microwaves, so the containment question does not arise. The practical answer is still to stop using it: whatever failed is on the high-voltage side, and running the appliance repeatedly to see whether today is different puts load on the parts around it.

How do I tell a magnetron from a diode?

By ear, roughly. A loud hum or buzz appearing alongside the loss of heating points at the diode or the capacitor — Whirlpool attach the hum to a diode breakdown specifically. A silent failure with everything else behaving normally is more typical of the tube. An engineer will confirm it properly, and neither is a guess worth acting on.

Is a magnetron worth replacing?

On a built-in or a good combination oven, frequently. On a countertop machine, the part plus a visit will usually cost more than a replacement microwave. That is a genuine judgement rather than a way of avoiding the answer, and it turns mostly on what your appliance cost.

Written by

Andrew Pickett

Researcher and writer

Last updated

Technical review

Not reviewed by an engineer

No engineer has read this page. Severity follows what the manufacturer publishes, and we would rather tell you that than let a byline imply a sign-off.

What we check instead

Sources and how we verified this

We establish the facts from the sources below and then write the explanation ourselves. We do not copy manufacturer wording and we do not host their manuals.

  • Manufacturer technical and service documentation

This page has not been reviewed by an engineer, and we would rather tell you that than imply otherwise. The severity rating follows what the manufacturer publishes: where they say isolate the appliance and call someone, so do we.

Read our full verification process

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