Microwave not heating
A microwave that lights up, turns and counts down but leaves the food cold has a specific and well-understood set of causes, and none of them justifies taking the cover off.
What it usually means
Start with the part that makes this appliance different from everything else in the kitchen. Inside a microwave is a transformer stepping mains up to a couple of thousand volts, and a capacitor that holds a dangerous charge after the plug is pulled. The service manuals all instruct engineers to discharge it before touching anything. So the rule on this page is not a formality: whatever the fault turns out to be, the outer casing stays on. Unplugging a microwave does not make the inside of it safe, which is not true of any other appliance in a domestic kitchen.
With that settled, the mechanism. Microwaves are produced by a magnetron, fed from that high-voltage circuit. Everything else — the light, the fan, the turntable, the clock, the beeps — runs from ordinary mains. When the magnetron or its supply fails, the appliance goes through a cycle perfectly and the food comes out cold, which is why "running but not heating" is the single most common microwave complaint and why it looks so much like nothing being wrong.
Before assuming that, rule out the free causes, because several of them produce identical symptoms. A power level left low is the first: at 20 or 30 per cent the magnetron is on for a few seconds in every thirty, and a mug of tea after two minutes feels untouched. A defrost programme does the same thing by design. Demonstration mode is a genuine setting on several makes, and manufacturers describe it plainly as the appliance running cold while appearing to work. On a combination oven, the wrong function is a classic: grill or convection selected means no microwave power at all, however normal the display looks.
Then there is the door, which is not a lid. It is part of the shielding that keeps the energy inside the cavity, and behind it sits a chain of interlock switches whose job is to prove it is shut before anything is energised. They are among the most frequently failing parts in the appliance, and depending on the design a failed switch produces either a machine that runs without heating or one that does nothing at all. This is also why a microwave with a damaged, distorted or dropped door should be taken out of use rather than persevered with.
One owner action genuinely destroys magnetrons: running the appliance empty. With nothing to absorb the energy it is reflected back into the tube. So if it stopped heating immediately after somebody ran it with nothing inside, or after a container boiled dry, the timeline is diagnostic. Arcing is the other thing worth knowing — the small board on the cavity wall is a waveguide cover, and when it chars it arcs, which is spectacular, common, and repairable for very little.
Finally, the arithmetic. A magnetron plus a call-out on a £90 countertop microwave is not worth spending. On a built-in unit, or an inverter model that cost several hundred pounds, it usually is. Deciding which of those you own before booking anybody is the most useful thing on this page.
How to narrow it down
Work through these in order.
What power level and programme is it actually set to?
Cancel everything, set full power and two minutes, and heat a cup of water. A microwave left on a low power level or a defrost setting genuinely will not warm food in a normal time, and it is the explanation more often than anyone expects. If a cup of water is hot after two minutes, the appliance is working.
Does the display or the manual mention demonstration mode?
Several makes publish this openly: in demonstration or shop mode the appliance lights, counts down and does not heat. It is intended for showroom display and gets switched on at home by an unlucky sequence of presses. Turning it off is a documented key combination rather than a repair, so it is worth ruling out before anything is spent.
Is it a combination microwave, and is the microwave function selected?
On a combination model the same cavity does grilling and convection, and the wrong function selected means no microwave energy at all. The display looks entirely normal. Choose the plain microwave function explicitly rather than a programme, and try the cup of water again before drawing any conclusion.
Does the turntable turn and the light come on?
If everything else works and only the heat is missing, you have narrowed it to the high-voltage side or the interlocks. If the appliance does nothing at all when you press start, the list is different and includes the door switches, the keypad and the supply. Say which of the two it is when you book, because it changes what an engineer brings.
Does the door close properly and latch cleanly?
Look along the seal and the frame for distortion, and check whether the door has ever been dropped or forced. The interlock switches behind it are common failures, and a door that does not shut squarely will not operate them. Damage to the door, its seal or its glass is a stop-using-it fault rather than a maintenance one, because that assembly is what contains the energy.
Has anyone run it empty or boiled something dry recently?
With nothing in the cavity to absorb the energy it is reflected back into the magnetron, and this is the one thing an owner can do that reliably kills the tube. If it stopped heating on the same day that happened, the timeline is most of the diagnosis and worth telling whoever you call.
Is there any arcing, or a scorched patch on the panel inside the right-hand wall?
That thin board is the waveguide cover, and it chars where food deposits burn onto it, then arcs. It is a cheap part and, unusually for a microwave, one that is reachable from inside the cavity without opening the case. It is not the cause of a cold microwave, but it is worth checking while you are looking.
What did the appliance cost, and is it built in?
This decides whether to repair or replace before an engineer visits. High-voltage components plus labour comes to a substantial fraction of a cheap countertop machine, so those are usually replaced. A built-in unit or an expensive inverter model is worth repairing, and a built-in one also has to match an aperture, which makes replacement the more disruptive option.
Codes commonly shown with this
- Not heating but runningAll brandsThe light is on, the turntable is going round and the food comes out cold. This is the classic microwave failure and none of it is an owner repair.Get it checked
- H97PanasonicAn inverter or magnetron fault — and a counter. Panasonic state three H97 events disable the oven permanently, even after the faulty part has been replaced.Get it checked
- F16LGLG say a heating issue was detected. They publish F19 with word-for-word identical text, so both codes land here.Get it checked
- Demo modeBoschBSH’s own words are that in demo mode the appliance runs cold. It lights up, appears to work, and generates nothing at all.Usually simple to fix
- F1E5WhirlpoolThe inverter or the magnetron tube. This is the code behind the classic symptom of a microwave that runs perfectly and heats nothing.Get it checked
- E01SharpOverheating protection. Sharp’s appliance has sensed a high temperature and stopped itself, and STOP/ECO is what clears the display.Get it checked
When it is urgent
Take care
What it costs
Typical repair cost
£0–£200
Typical UK prices including parts and labour, updated September 2026. Your quote may differ.
Get an engineer to look at this
We do not pass enquiries to a repair firm, so there is no form here. When you book a qualified appliance engineer, tell them the make, the model and the exact code or message on the display, and ask whether they carry parts for this make — that is what turns one visit into a repair rather than a quote.
Technical review
Not reviewed by an engineer
No engineer has read this page. Severity follows what the manufacturer publishes, and we would rather tell you that than let a byline imply a sign-off.