LG DOOR fault codewhat it means and how to fix it
The word DOOR rather than a number. LG say the door is not closed or the latch is not engaged, and they include transit packing as a cause.
Take care
What DOOR means
LG publish this one as a word rather than a code, and their text is the most practical thing in their whole microwave table: DOOR "indicates a problem with the door not being closed or the door latch not being engaged", and their remedy is to be sure no packing or foreign material is preventing the door from latching, to close the door firmly, and to check that a cooking rack is not out of position and stopping the door closing. The reference to packing is LG addressing a brand-new appliance with transit material still inside it, which sounds too obvious to publish and is one of the commonest first-use faults there is.
What sits behind the code is the mechanism that makes a microwave safe, and it is worth understanding because it explains why the appliance is so unforgiving about a door that is nearly shut. A microwave door is not a lid, it is a radiation shield, and the standard these appliances are built to defines not just a door interlock — a device that stops the magnetron running unless the door is closed — but a monitored door interlock, an interlock system with a supervision device watching it. LG’s own manuals describe the oven as having built-in safety interlocks, plural, and service literature across the trade describes a primary switch, a secondary switch and a monitor switch.
Every one of those switches has to change state for the appliance to run. A door held a millimetre off by a crumb, a bag of packing foam or a rack sitting proud will satisfy some of them and not the rest, and the appliance treats a partial answer as a no. That is the behaviour you are seeing, and it is the system working. The good news is that the causes LG list are all things you can look at from the outside, which makes this the one door-related fault in this category with a real owner remedy. The limit is also clear: LG say that if the code continues, service is required for a proper diagnosis. A door that will not latch on a clean, empty appliance is a hinge, a latch or a switch, and none of those is reachable without removing the cover.
What causes it
| Cause | What is actually happening | How likely |
|---|---|---|
| Something physically in the way | Transit packing on a new appliance, a rack out of position, or food debris on the frame all hold the door fractionally open. | Common |
| Door not pushed fully home | These doors need a positive push rather than a nudge, and a soft close satisfies some interlocks and not others. | Common |
| Debris or build-up on the sealing face | Years of spatter on the frame changes how far the door travels, so it stops just short of latching. | Occasional |
| Hinge or latch worn | A door that has dropped no longer presents the catches squarely to their receivers, and the switches never all close. | Occasional |
| Interlock switch failed | The door is shut and one switch is not reporting it. Behind the cover, and the point at which LG’s remedy runs out. | Occasional |
What to try yourself
Open the door fully and take everything out, including any rack, turntable support and — if the appliance is new — any packing, foam or cardboard still inside.
Look along the frame where the door meets the body and along the door edge itself. You are looking for anything raised: dried spatter, a crumb, a label, a bent trim.
Wipe the frame and the door edge with a damp cloth and dry them. Pay attention to the catches on the door edge and the slots they enter.
If you use a cooking rack, take it out and try without it. LG name it specifically, and a rack sitting a few millimetres proud is enough.
Close the door deliberately — firm and square, not a swing. If the code clears, put the rack back and check it clears again with the rack in.
If DOOR persists on a clean empty appliance with the door firmly shut, stop there. LG’s own instruction is that a continuing code needs a proper diagnosis.
Do not try to hold, tape or wedge the door to make it run. Those switches are the radiation containment, and defeating them defeats the only thing keeping microwaves inside the cavity.
Get a qualified appliance engineer to look at your LG DOOR
We do not pass enquiries to a repair firm, so there is no form here. When you book a qualified appliance engineer, tell them the make, the model and the exact code or message on the display, and ask whether they carry parts for this make — that is what turns one visit into a repair rather than a quote.
What it costs to fix
Typical repair cost
£0–£150
Time on site
15 minutes
Nothing in the common cases, which is packing, a rack or debris. A hinge, latch or interlock switch fitted is about £80 to £150, and the visit is most of it.
Typical UK prices including parts and labour, updated September 2026. Your quote may differ.
Own this appliance and had this code? . Nothing is published until a person has read it.
Related LG fault codes
- F3Get it checkedLG document this one twice and differently. One article says wipe the touch panel, the other says the control panel is faulty and needs service.Related: same brand
- LOCUsually simple to fixNot a fault. LOC is LG’s child lock, and it releases by holding STOP/CLEAR until the display drops it.Related: same brand
- F16Get it checkedLG say a heating issue was detected. They publish F19 with word-for-word identical text, so both codes land here.Related: same brand
- E10Get it checkedLG say an internal short was detected in the control board, and then give you something to try anyway: unplug it for a full minute.Related: same brand
- F1Get it checkedLG publish this as a problem with the mainboard and say it requires service. There is no owner remedy, and the useful question is whether the appliance is worth it.Related: same brand
- F2Get it checkedLG describe a thermistor problem putting the temperature in the unit out of range. It is the reading that is wrong, not necessarily the cavity.Related: same brand
Own a LG microwave? Save it and its codes come first next time.
Related guides
Common questions about LG DOOR
The appliance is new and it has done this from the first day.
Look for transit packing. LG list it first for a reason: foam blocks and cardboard get left in the cavity or wedged behind the turntable, and a brand-new microwave that will not accept its own door is far more often a packing problem than a faulty one.
It runs if I press the door while it starts.
Then stop using it and book a repair. You have found that the interlocks only all close under pressure, which means one of them is marginal, and the fix is not to keep pressing. That set of switches is the containment system.
Is this the same as a microwave that has gone completely dead?
No, and the difference is informative. A microwave with a display showing DOOR still has power and is refusing to run. One with no display at all has often blown its monitor fuse, which is a different fault with a different meaning.
Should I worry about leaking radiation?
Not from this. The appliance has refused to operate, which is the design intent — it destroys its own fuse rather than run with the door open. A damaged door is a different matter: LG’s manuals say that if the door or door seals are damaged the oven must not be operated until it has been repaired by a competent person, and they name a bent door, broken or loosened hinges and latches, and damaged seals or sealing surfaces. If yours shows any of those, stop using it. A DOOR code on an undamaged door is the safety system doing its job.
Technical review
Not reviewed by an engineer
No engineer has read this page. Severity follows what the manufacturer publishes, and we would rather tell you that than let a byline imply a sign-off.
Sources and how we verified this
We establish the facts from the sources below and then write the explanation ourselves. We do not copy manufacturer wording and we do not host their manuals.
- Manufacturer support portal
- Manufacturer technical and service documentation
- Trade body guidance
This page has not been reviewed by an engineer, and we would rather tell you that than imply otherwise. The severity rating follows what the manufacturer publishes: where they say isolate the appliance and call someone, so do we.