Fridge not getting cold
Before assuming a fridge has failed, establish which compartment is warm and whether the compressor is running, because those two answers separate a free fix from a scrap appliance.
What it usually means
A fridge that is not cold is either not trying or trying and failing, and the difference is audible. Put your hand on the side or the back, low down and to the rear where the compressor is, and listen. A low hum with faint warmth means the appliance is running and something else is wrong. Complete silence over several minutes, with the interior light and display working normally, is the more hopeful finding, because the commonest cause of that is not a fault at all.
The cause is shop mode. Every showroom needs appliances that light up without running a compressor for a year, so manufacturers build a display setting in, and the button sequence that enables it is short enough to be triggered at home by accident or by a child. The result is exactly the symptom: full display, working light, no cooling ever. It is worth knowing that this is not always cleared by unplugging — on some appliances the setting survives a power cut, and it has to be switched off with the same sequence that switched it on. Check the manual for your model before spending anything, because there is no cheaper repair than this one.
If both compartments are warm and the compressor is running constantly, look at the outside of the appliance before the inside. A fridge cools by moving heat into the room, and it does that through a condenser — either a black grille on the back or a coil behind a vent underneath. A layer of dust, a cupboard built tight around it, or a cabinet pushed hard against a wall all reduce how much heat it can shed, and the appliance responds by running longer and longer for less and less effect. Manufacturers publish a required clearance; almost nobody leaves it.
The most diagnostic pattern of all is a freezer that is fine and a fridge that is not. Frost-free appliances have one cooling surface, in the freezer, and cool the fridge above by blowing cold air up a duct through a flap. If the fan that moves that air stops, or the duct ices up, the freezer stays perfectly cold while the fridge climbs to room temperature — so this pattern points at a fan, a flap or a blockage rather than at the expensive sealed system. A single-fan appliance also tells you something by going quiet: on many models you can hear the fan change note when you open the fridge door.
Two ordinary explanations account for a lot of the rest. Cold air has to circulate, so packing shelves solid against the rear vents starves the front of the cabinet, and a big shop takes a day to come down to temperature rather than an hour. And a fridge in an unheated garage or outbuilding fails in winter for a reason that surprises everybody: the part that decides whether to run is inside the fridge compartment, so when the room is near freezing the appliance thinks it is already cold enough and stops running, which leaves the freezer to thaw.
How to narrow it down
Work through these in order.
Is the compressor running at all?
Listen at the back, low down, for two or three minutes. A hum and gentle warmth at the compressor means it is running. Silence with the light and display working is the finding that points at shop mode, a thermostat, or the start components on the compressor, and it is the branch of this fault most likely to cost nothing.
Is the freezer still cold while the fridge is warm?
On a frost-free appliance this narrows it a long way. There is only one cooling surface and it is in the freezer, so the fridge depends on a fan blowing air up a duct. A cold freezer with a warm fridge points at that fan, the flap that controls it, or the duct being iced up — not at the sealed refrigerant circuit.
Does the display show anything unusual, or has anyone been pressing buttons?
Look for a word or symbol you do not recognise, and check the set temperatures have not been changed to their warmest. Shop or demonstration mode is the single most common reason a fridge with a healthy display never cools, and it goes on by accident. Turning it off is a sequence of button presses documented for your model.
How much space and how much dust is there behind and underneath?
Pull it out, vacuum the grille at the back or the coil behind the plinth vent, and check nothing is pressed against the wall. Heat has to leave the appliance somewhere, and a smothered condenser produces exactly this complaint with everything working. It is also the maintenance nobody does, which is why it is worth doing before calling anybody.
Is it in a garage, a utility room or anywhere unheated?
If it is, and it is winter, that may be the whole answer rather than a contributing factor. The control that decides whether to run sits in the fridge compartment, so a cold room stops the appliance running and the freezer thaws. Some models are rated for low ambient temperatures and most are not; the rating is in the manual.
Is the appliance full, and how recently was it filled or switched on?
Give a newly filled or newly installed fridge twenty-four hours before judging it, and make sure the rear vents inside are not blocked by packaging pressed against them. Air has to move for the cabinet to be evenly cold, and a shelf packed solid to the back wall produces a cold rear and a warm door.
Is there thick ice on the freezer walls or the back of the fridge?
Heavy icing is both a symptom and a cause: the ice insulates the cooling surface and blocks the airway. Something is letting warm moist air in continuously or the defrost cycle is not working, and both are repairable. What is not safe is removing it with anything sharp, because the pipework runs inside those walls.
How old is it, and has it been getting gradually worse?
A slow decline over months, with the appliance running almost continuously and both compartments drifting up, is the pattern that points at the sealed system. That is the one repair not worth having done on a domestic fridge, and knowing so before an engineer arrives lets you make the decision on your own terms.
Codes commonly shown with this
- Demo modeAll brandsA shop-floor setting that lights the display and disables cooling. It is the commonest reason a fridge that looks perfectly healthy is quietly not cold.Get it checked
- Fridge in a garageAll brandsA fridge in an unheated garage stops working properly in winter, and it is not a fault. Cold ambient temperature is why, and manufacturers publish the limits.Usually simple to fix
- OFFLGShop mode. LG publish how it gets switched on by accident at home, and give two ways out — including a ten second power cycle that does work on LG.Get it checked
- FULGThe freezer did not get cold enough in the time allowed. LG give real owner steps for this one, including a paper test for the door seals.Get it checked
- OF OFSamsungCooling Off or Demo Mode. On many Samsung ranges unplugging does not clear it, and Samsung publish which, so a fridge still warm after a power cycle has not been diagnosed.Get it checked
- 21ESamsungThe fridge fan. Samsung group three codes here and give one cause: the fan is not spinning properly, usually because it has frozen up or jammed.Get it checked
When it is urgent
Take care
What it costs
Typical repair cost
£0–£250
Typical UK prices including parts and labour, updated September 2026. Your quote may differ.
Get an engineer to look at this
We do not pass enquiries to a repair firm, so there is no form here. When you book a qualified refrigeration engineer, tell them the make, the model and the exact code or message on the display, and ask whether they carry parts for this make — that is what turns one visit into a repair rather than a quote.
Technical review
Not reviewed by an engineer
No engineer has read this page. Severity follows what the manufacturer publishes, and we would rather tell you that than let a byline imply a sign-off.