EV charger tripping the electrics
A chargepoint that trips is reporting a fault it was fitted to detect, and one of the things it watches for is a supply failure that can make the car body live.
What it usually means
This is the one page in this category where the answer is not to investigate further. A home chargepoint is required to carry protection that most household circuits do not, and understanding what those devices watch for explains why repeatedly resetting one is the wrong response rather than merely an unproductive one.
Three separate protections are usually in play. The first is residual current protection, which watches for current leaving the circuit by a route other than the one it came back on — through water, through insulation, through a person. The second is direct-current detection, because a car's onboard charger can leak a small direct current that a conventional residual current device is not able to see and can even be blinded by; UK wiring rules require this to be covered, and many units build in detection at around six milliamps. The third is the one people have never heard of and is the reason for the strongest wording here: protection against loss of the combined neutral and earth conductor in the supply.
That last one is worth explaining plainly. On most British streets the earth for a house is derived from the supply neutral. If that conductor fails somewhere in the network — and it does, particularly on older cables — the earthed metalwork in the house can rise to a dangerous voltage relative to the ground. Indoors that is bad enough. On a driveway, where somebody is standing on wet ground holding a metal car connected to that earth, it is lethal. Chargepoint installations are therefore required to detect the condition and disconnect, or to be earthed independently, and a unit reporting this has done something no ordinary appliance can do.
So the diagnosis worth doing is observational, and it can be done entirely from where you stand. Does it trip the moment you plug in, or partway into a charge? Does it happen with one car and not another, if you have access to two? Does it happen in the rain? Which device moves — the one inside the chargepoint, or a breaker in the consumer unit? Is it the same car that trips a public charger too? These distinctions matter to whoever attends: a fault that only appears in wet weather points at water ingress in an enclosure or a cable gland, a fault that appears at the same point in every charge points at the vehicle's onboard charger, and a fault that comes and goes without the car connected points at the supply.
What no observation can justify is putting the circuit back on repeatedly to see what happens, or asking anybody to make the protection less sensitive. These devices are installed under specific requirements for driveway charging, and the fault they most consequentially detect is one where the warning sign and the injury are the same event.
How to narrow it down
Work through these in order.
Which device is actually operating?
Look at both the chargepoint and the consumer unit and note which one has moved, and what it says. Many chargepoints contain their own residual current and direct-current protection, so a unit that shows a fault and stops without disturbing the house is reporting something different from one that takes out a breaker in the board.
Does it trip on plugging in, or partway into a charge?
Time it if you can, without repeating it more than necessary. Tripping at the moment of connection points at the connector, moisture or the initial checks the unit runs. Tripping consistently some minutes in, at roughly the same point, points more towards the vehicle’s onboard charger or a thermal condition.
Does it only happen in wet weather?
This is a genuinely useful pattern and worth reporting. Water finding its way into an enclosure, a cable gland or a connector produces faults that appear on wet days and vanish on dry ones, which is why intermittent tripping through a wet week and none in a dry fortnight is information rather than randomness.
Does the same car trip a public charger?
If you can try one, do. A vehicle whose onboard charger is leaking direct current will cause protection to operate wherever it is plugged in, and that moves the investigation from your installation to your car. Equally, a car that charges faultlessly in public and trips only at home points squarely at the installation.
Does it trip with nothing plugged in?
Note whether the circuit will stay on at all when the charger is idle. A device that operates with no vehicle connected is not reacting to the car, and that raises the possibility of a supply-side condition or a fault within the unit or its wiring. It is one of the more important things to be able to tell an electrician.
What exactly does the unit display or say in its app?
Write the words down. Several makes publish specific named faults for earth problems, for loss of the supply neutral, for a welded internal relay and for supply voltage outside limits, and they mean quite different things. The name on the screen is often the difference between a network problem and an appliance problem.
Has anything changed on the driveway or in the house?
Recent groundwork, a new outside light, pressure washing, a rodent problem, or building work near the cable route are all worth mentioning. So is anything unusual elsewhere in the house — flickering lights, other appliances misbehaving, or neighbours reporting the same, which can point at the supply rather than at you.
Is anything discoloured, distorted or warm?
Look at the connector, the cable and the unit’s casing without dismantling anything. Browning around a pin, a socket that has softened, or a cable that feels warm along its length is a connection failing under load. Report it as such and stop using the unit, because that is the version of this fault that gets worse quickly.
Codes commonly shown with this
- Charger keeps trippingAll brandsDo not keep resetting it. UK chargepoints are required to detect a dangerous supply fault, and repeated tripping may be the charger reporting your electricity supply.Stop — call an engineer
- PE Faultmyenergi zappiCode 25. myenergi say the earth is either disconnected or its impedance is too high — a problem in the installation rather than in the charger.Stop — call an engineer
- PEN Faultmyenergi zappiCode 29. The protection against loss of the supply earth-neutral conductor has operated, and myenergi tell you to remove the fault before resetting.Stop — call an engineer
- Contactor Faultmyenergi zappiCode 28. myenergi say a relay inside the unit has welded, and that a second relay is holding the supply to your car isolated. Their action is one reset; if it returns, contact them.Get it checked
- OvervoltageOhmeAbove 253 volts or below 207, Ohme pause charging. Their published remedy sends you to your distribution network operator, not to Ohme.Get it checked
- RCD activationOhmeOhme build the residual current protection into the unit and publish the reset for it — one of very few owner actions any manufacturer in this category sanctions.Get it checked
When it is urgent
Take care
What it costs
Typical repair cost
£120–£450
Typical UK prices including parts and labour, updated September 2026. Your quote may differ.
Get an engineer to look at this
We do not pass enquiries to a repair firm, so there is no form here. When you book a registered electrician, tell them the make, the model and the exact code or message on the display, and ask whether they carry parts for this make — that is what turns one visit into a repair rather than a quote.
Technical review
Not reviewed by an engineer
No engineer has read this page. Severity follows what the manufacturer publishes, and we would rather tell you that than let a byline imply a sign-off.