Fridge leaking water
Water inside a fridge or on the floor in front of it is nearly always meltwater that cannot get out, and the drain it should be using is the size of a pencil.
What it usually means
Every fridge makes water, and a healthy one gets rid of it without anyone knowing. Understanding where that water comes from is most of this fault: it arrives as humidity in the air, every time the door opens. The coldest surface in the cabinet collects it, and on a frost-free appliance that surface is the evaporator hidden behind the rear wall of the fridge compartment. Frost forms there while the appliance cools, a heater melts it off on a timed cycle, and the meltwater runs down a moulded channel to a small hole at the bottom of that rear wall. From there a tube takes it to a shallow tray sitting on the compressor, where the heat of the compressor evaporates it back into the room.
That is why a fridge has no reservoir to empty, and why a blocked drain hole has nowhere to put the water. Food debris, a label off a jar or a film of the sugary residue that builds up over a few years is enough to stop it, and once it stops the water backs up in stages. First it collects in the channel and freezes into a ridge across the back. Then it spreads forward under the salad drawer, which is the classic complaint of half an inch of water under the crisper. Then it reaches the front lip and runs out onto the kitchen floor. Water under the drawer and a puddle by the door are the same fault a fortnight apart, not two problems.
The freezer version behaves differently and is worth telling apart. Its drain sits under the bottom drawer, and when it blocks the water freezes where it lands, so the first sign is a sheet of ice growing across the freezer floor rather than a leak. The leak comes later, when the appliance is opened often enough for some of that ice to melt. This is the point at which the temptation to attack it with something sharp becomes dangerous: the evaporator pipework runs inside the walls and the floor of the compartment, most domestic fridges sold here are charged with flammable isobutane, and a chisel through a pipe ends the appliance and fills the kitchen with gas.
Two other sources produce water in the same places and want ruling out. If the appliance is plumbed for an ice maker or a chilled water dispenser, then it has mains water inside it, and a leak from that circuit is continuous rather than intermittent and can be a great deal of water. And if the amount of condensate has simply gone up — a seal that no longer pulls the door shut, a door held ajar by a bottle in the rack, warm food going straight in, a hot kitchen in August — a drain that was coping can stop coping without ever being blocked. One thing you can rule out immediately: refrigerant is a gas at room pressure, so anything wet on your floor is water.
How to narrow it down
Work through these in order.
Is the water inside the fridge, inside the freezer, or on the floor?
This is the first split and it decides everything after it. Water pooling under the salad drawer points at the fridge drain. Ice across the freezer floor points at the freezer drain. Water only on the floor with a dry interior points at the tube, the tray on the compressor or a plumbed water supply, all of which are at the back.
Can you see the drain hole at the bottom of the rear wall?
Take the bottom shelf and the salad drawer out and look at the centre of the back wall where it meets the floor of the compartment. There is usually a small recess with a hole in it, sometimes with a rubber flap or a little cap. If it is full of ice or brown sludge, you have found the fault, and clearing it gently with warm water and a soft tube or a cotton bud is a job for the owner.
Is there a build-up of ice at the back of the fridge compartment?
A thin film of frost that comes and goes is the evaporator doing its job. A solid ridge of ice, or a back wall that has iced over completely, means the defrost side is not clearing it — either the drain is blocked and the meltwater is refreezing, or the defrost heater or its sensor has stopped working. Whichever it is, do not chip it: the refrigerant pipework is behind that panel.
Does the door pull itself shut, and does the seal grip a sheet of paper?
Shut a sheet of paper in the door and pull it out. If it slides free without resistance, the seal is not sealing at that point, and warm humid air is being drawn in continuously. That produces far more condensate than the drain was designed for, so a perished or distorted seal makes a marginal drain into a leaking fridge.
Is the appliance plumbed in for ice or chilled water?
If there is a pipe going to the back of it, you have mains water in the appliance and a different class of leak. Turn the supply off at the small valve where it tees off, usually under the sink, and see whether the leak stops. It rules the whole plumbing side in or out in one move, and it is the version of this fault that floods a floor rather than dampening one.
Has anything changed recently — moved, defrosted, restocked?
A fridge that has been pulled out and pushed back can have its drain tube kinked or its evaporation tray knocked off its seat, and a fridge that has just been manually defrosted often has more water than the tray can hold. Timing matters here in the way it usually does not: a leak that started the day something happened is likely to be about the something.
Is the water anywhere near a socket, an extension lead or a wooden floor?
Deal with that before the diagnosis. Water tracking under a kitchen unit towards an appliance socket is the only genuinely risky part of this fault, and laminate or engineered board swells permanently within a day or two. Get it dry, get something absorbent under the front of the appliance, and then work out where it is coming from.
Codes commonly shown with this
- Ice building upAll brandsReal fault, and one where the obvious remedy is the dangerous one. Never chip ice out with anything metal — the pipework carrying flammable refrigerant runs through the walls you would be hitting.Stop — call an engineer
- FFLGFreezer fan. LG’s master list says request service, but their own dedicated article gives owner steps, and the usual cause is frost around the motor.Get it checked
- dHLGThe defrost cycle ran and the temperature did not rise. LG give the exact test it failed, and their own per-code articles give a reset and a long manual defrost before the service call.Get it checked
- gFLGThe water flow sensor. LG break their own request-service rule here too, and all three of their named causes are outside the appliance.Get it checked
- E3HotpointLabelled a defrost sensor fault, but Hotpoint attach an oddly specific owner check to it: the drain pipe and the plumbing under your sink.Get it checked
- E0HotpointIce maker fault, and one of the two codes Hotpoint lead their own page with. It only applies if your appliance actually has one.Get it checked
When it is urgent
Take care
What it costs
Typical repair cost
£0–£180
Typical UK prices including parts and labour, updated September 2026. Your quote may differ.
Get an engineer to look at this
We do not pass enquiries to a repair firm, so there is no form here. When you book a qualified refrigeration engineer, tell them the make, the model and the exact code or message on the display, and ask whether they carry parts for this make — that is what turns one visit into a repair rather than a quote.
Technical review
Not reviewed by an engineer
No engineer has read this page. Severity follows what the manufacturer publishes, and we would rather tell you that than let a byline imply a sign-off.