Potterton E119 fault codewhat it means and how to fix it
The appliance has stopped because system pressure is too low. Refilling to 1.2 bar clears it, but on an old system the reason it fell matters more.
Take care
Do you own the property or rent it?
The right answer depends on what you can see. Pick the one that matches.
Choose the option on the left that matches what your appliance is doing, and the answer for that case appears here.
I own it
Topping up is fine as an immediate fix. If you are doing it more than twice a year, spend the money on finding the leak rather than on repeated refills, because the refills are what damage the system.
Book a pressure test and ask specifically for the expansion vessel charge to be checked with the system drained. On a fifteen-year-old Promax that vessel has almost certainly never been looked at.
I rent it
You can safely top the system up yourself — it involves no gas work and no removal of panels. But a system needing frequent topping up is a repair issue rather than a tenant task.
Top up so you have heating, then report it to your landlord or agent in writing and note the dates you have had to do it. That record is what turns "it keeps losing pressure" into an actionable repair.
I am the landlord or manage the property
Repeated top-ups by a tenant are a warning sign worth acting on. The refilling accelerates corrosion, and a sludged system on a Promax of this age leads to pump and heat exchanger failures that cost far more than the leak repair.
Get the leak traced and consider a chemical clean and magnetic filter at the same visit. It is the cheapest point at which to intervene.
What E119 means
E119 is low system pressure, and on a Potterton it is worth thinking about slightly differently from the same code on a newer appliance. Most Promax boilers in service are now on the far side of fifteen years, attached to pipework and radiators that are older still. On a system of that age the question is rarely whether there is a leak somewhere but where, and how much corrosion the repeated refilling has already caused. Every time fresh mains water goes into a sealed system it brings dissolved oxygen with it, and that oxygen attacks steel radiators and produces the black magnetite sludge that eventually blocks heat exchangers and seizes pumps. A Promax that needs topping up monthly is not primarily a pressure problem; it is a system being slowly destroyed by the remedy. That is the argument for finding the leak rather than living with the routine, even though topping up is quicker and free.
What causes it
| Cause | What is actually happening | How likely |
|---|---|---|
| Corroded radiator or towel rail seeping | On systems of this age a pinhole through a rusted radiator panel is genuinely common. Look for rust staining or a hard crusty deposit rather than an obvious wet patch, since slow weeps evaporate as fast as they appear. | Common |
| Expansion vessel past its service life | The vessel is a wearing item and few are ever checked. Once it fails the safety valve discharges outside on every heating cycle, so the system loses a little each day. | Common |
| Weeping valve glands | Radiator valve packings dry out and seep. Usually fixable by tightening the gland nut a quarter turn rather than by replacing the valve. | Common |
| Safety valve holding open on debris | A grain of magnetite on the seat stops the valve closing fully. The clue is a copper pipe through the outside wall that drips or shows white limescale streaking below it. | Occasional |
| Joint leaking under a floor | The one nobody wants. Often reveals itself as an unexplained warm patch on a floor or a persistent musty smell in one room. | Occasional |
What to try yourself
Open the drop-down flap on the front of the Promax to see the display and the reset button. A surprising number of these appliances are reported dead when the flap has simply never been opened.
Find the pressure gauge. On most Promax installations it is a separate round gauge on the pipework beneath the appliance rather than on the front panel.
Locate the filling loop — usually a braided silver hose between two pipes below the boiler, with a small lever valve at each end.
Open both levers slowly until the gauge reads 1.2 bar cold, then close them firmly. Check they are properly shut by feeling whether the hose is still cold and quiet.
Do not fill beyond 2.5 bar cold. On an older system, over-pressurising can start a leak at a joint that was previously holding perfectly well.Hold reset for five seconds. Then walk round every radiator and feel underneath each valve for damp — with the system freshly pressurised, a weep is easier to find than at any other time.
Get a Gas Safe registered engineer to look at your Potterton E119
Gas Safe Register engineers only. No obligation.
What it costs to fix
Typical repair cost
£0–£450
Time on site
12 minutes
Free to top up. A leak trace is £90 to £160. An expansion vessel is £180 to £400 fitted. A chemical clean with a filter, worth considering on a system this age, is £400 to £750.
Typical UK prices including parts and labour, updated August 2026. Your quote may differ.
Parts you may need
We may earn a commission if you buy a part through one of these links. It does not change what you pay, and it does not affect which parts we list.
Expansion vessel (8 litre, sealed system)
EV-8L£35–£85Plumbing merchant
Price checked 5 August 2026
Pressure relief valve, 3 bar
PRV-3B£18–£42Plumbing merchant
Price checked 5 August 2026
What other owners found
Nobody has shared what worked for them on this code yet. If you have had it, you would be the first — and it genuinely helps the next person.
Related Potterton fault codes
- E117Get it checkedSystem pressure has climbed above about 2.9 bar. Either it has been overfilled or the expansion vessel has stopped working.Related: water pressure
- F.22Get it checkedThe boiler has shut down because there is not enough water in the system. Pressure has dropped below roughly 0.5 bar and it will not fire until you top it up.Related: water pressure
- F.75Get it checkedThe boiler cannot detect a rise in pressure when the pump starts, so it has locked out. Usually a failed pressure sensor or a pump that is not moving water.Related: water pressure
- F1Get it checkedSystem pressure has dropped below the minimum the boiler will run at. Topping it back up to 1.2 bar usually clears it straight away.Related: water pressure
- CE 207Get it checkedSystem water pressure has dropped too low for the boiler to run safely. Topping the system back up to 1.2 bar usually clears it in five minutes.Related: water pressure
- E10Usually simple to fixSystem water pressure has fallen too low for the appliance to fire. Top the system back up to 1.2 bar and it will restart.Related: water pressure
Related guides
Sources and how we verified this
We establish the facts from the sources below and then write the explanation ourselves. We do not copy manufacturer wording and we do not host their manuals.
- Manufacturer technical and service documentation
- Interviews with working engineers
Checked by Technical reviewer (Gas Safe registration to be displayed on appointment) on 5 August 2026.