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Mitsubishi Electric Outdoor unit failure

Get it checkedHeat pumpAll Ecodan outdoor units. The row reads "U*, F*, A*" in the FTC5, FTC6 and FTC7 tables and "U*, F*" in the FTC4 table, which did not yet list A codes. F-Gas certification is the legal requirement on R410A (PUHZ-W, PUHZ-HW) and R32 (PUZ-WM, PUZ-HWM) units and not on the R290 PUZ-WZ range.Last updated

Any code starting U, F or A means the outdoor unit; Mitsubishi publish that rule themselves. It is the refrigerant side: F-Gas work on R410A and R32 Ecodans, trained-installer work on the R290 range.

Take care

Some of this is safe to check yourself, but the repair itself is not. If the fault comes back after one reset, stop resetting it and get an F-Gas certified heat pump engineer to look at the Mitsubishi Electric properly.

What this means

This is the one published grouping rule in the whole category, and it is worth more than most individual code meanings. The last row of the FTC self-check table reads, verbatim, "U*, F*, A* — Outdoor unit failure — Refer to outdoor unit service manual". It is printed in the FTC5 and FTC6 installation manuals and again as the last row of Table 4 in the FTC7 cylinder unit service manual; the older FTC4 table has the same row as "U*, F*".

In one line Mitsubishi tell you that any code beginning with those letters points outside the house, at the compressor, the inverter, the fan, the pressure switches and the refrigerant circuit. That matters because it draws the qualification boundary for you, and the boundary depends on what is in the pipes. PUHZ-W and PUHZ-HW outdoor units hold R410A and PUZ-WM and PUZ-HWM hold R32; both are fluorinated gases, and work on a circuit containing them requires F-Gas certification in the UK, a statutory requirement rather than a manufacturer preference.

The PUZ-WZ Ecodan R290 range holds R290, a hydrocarbon that is not an F-gas; there the law does not demand the certificate, but Mitsubishi describe R290 as a highly flammable refrigerant and the outdoor unit is for trained installers, not a general handyman. Either way, a U, F or A code is not something to hand to somebody without the right qualification for your unit. It is also the group where the machine is most likely to have protected itself rather than broken: the high pressure switch and the inverter protections trip for reasons that include a blocked air path, a water flow problem indoors and unusually hot or cold weather, and an engineer may find nothing failed at all. What you can usefully do before the visit is rule out the outside causes: snow, leaves, garden waste, a fence panel or a wheelie bin blocking the airflow, all of which make an outdoor unit work far harder than it should.

What causes it

Causes of Mitsubishi Electric Outdoor unit failure, most common first
CauseWhat is actually happeningHow likely
Restricted airflow around the outdoor unitLeaves, snow, garden waste or something stacked against it. The one cause you can see and clear yourself.Common
Pressure switch tripped protectivelyOften a consequence of restricted airflow or extreme weather rather than a failed component.Common
Inverter or compressor faultThe serious end of this group. Diagnosed from the outdoor unit’s own board, which is engineer territory on every Ecodan range.Occasional
Refrigerant charge lost through a leakOn an R410A or R32 Ecodan only an F-Gas certified engineer may investigate, recover or recharge; that is law, not competence. On the R290 range it is a flammable hydrocarbon and a trained installer’s job.Occasional

What to try yourself

  1. Go and look at the outdoor unit. Clear snow, leaves and garden debris away from the grille and from the space around it.

  2. Check nothing has been put against it — a bin, a fence panel, a stack of pots, a garden chair. It needs a clear path for a lot of air.

  3. Do not pick ice off the fins or pour anything on the unit, even if it is iced up.

    The fins are thin aluminium with refrigerant pipework directly behind them. Puncturing that releases a mildly flammable gas on an R32 unit and a highly flammable one on the R290 range, and turns a service call into an incident.
  4. Note the exact code and whether the system is still producing any heat. Both are useful and neither costs anything.

  5. Read the refrigerant off the outdoor unit’s nameplate, then book accordingly. R410A or R32: ask specifically whether the engineer holds F-Gas certification, because for those gases it is a legal requirement. R290: ask for an installer trained on the Ecodan R290 range.

Get an F-Gas certified heat pump engineer to look at your Mitsubishi Electric heat pump

We do not pass enquiries to a repair firm, so there is no form here. When you book an F-Gas certified heat pump engineer, tell them the make, the model and the exact code or message on the display, and ask whether they carry parts for this make — that is what turns one visit into a repair rather than a quote.

What it costs to fix

Typical repair cost

£120–£1,200

Time on site

20 minutes

A diagnostic visit from an F-Gas certified engineer is typically £120 to £250. Beyond that the range is very wide — a pressure switch or a fan motor is a few hundred pounds, a compressor replacement can run past £1,000 and is often the point at which the age of the unit decides it.

Typical UK prices including parts and labour, updated September 2026. Your quote may differ.

Own this appliance and had this code? . Nothing is published until a person has read it.

Common questions

Can my regular heating engineer look at this?

On an R410A or R32 Ecodan, only if they hold F-Gas certification. Handling fluorinated refrigerant is legally restricted in the UK, so a competent heating engineer without that certificate can check the water side and the electrics but may not open the refrigerant circuit. Mitsubishi’s own training material draws the same line: a heating engineer can install and service a monobloc, but maintaining F-gas parts is for an F-Gas engineer. On the R290 range the certificate is not the legal test, but the refrigerant is highly flammable and Mitsubishi restrict the unit to trained installers.

Which refrigerant does my Ecodan have?

It is on the nameplate on the outdoor unit, and the model number tells you too: PUHZ-W and PUHZ-HW are R410A, PUZ-WM and PUZ-HWM are R32, and PUZ-WZ is the Ecodan R290 range. The first two are F-gases; R290 is not.

How do I know if my code is in this group?

By its first letter. Mitsubishi print the rule in the FTC installation manuals and service manual: codes starting U, F or A are outdoor unit failures. Codes starting L, P, J or E are indoor or controller faults.

The system is still heating. Is it urgent?

Less urgent, but do not leave it. Check whether the backup immersion heater has taken over, because that keeps the house warm at roughly the cost of direct electric heating and the first sign is usually the bill rather than the temperature.

Written by

Andrew Pickett

Researcher and writer

Last updated

Technical review

Not reviewed by an engineer

No engineer has read this page. Severity follows what the manufacturer publishes, and we would rather tell you that than let a byline imply a sign-off.

What we check instead

Sources and how we verified this

We establish the facts from the sources below and then write the explanation ourselves. We do not copy manufacturer wording and we do not host their manuals.

  • Manufacturer technical and service documentation

This page has not been reviewed by an engineer, and we would rather tell you that than imply otherwise. The severity rating follows what the manufacturer publishes: where they say isolate the appliance and call someone, so do we.

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