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FaultcodeCheck

Air conditioning keeps stopping

A system that runs for a while and then stops is usually protecting itself, and how long it lasts before stopping is the most useful thing you can measure.

What it usually means

A split system that shuts itself down mid-run is rarely broken in the ordinary sense. It has decided that continuing would damage something, and the timing tells you what. Note how long it runs before it stops, whether it restarts on its own, and whether the indoor fan keeps going after the cooling stops — those three observations narrow this fault more than any amount of resetting.

The commonest protective stop is about ice. If air is not moving properly across the indoor coil, the coil gets colder than the design allows, and at some point the unit either stops to let it thaw or reports a freeze-up. That is why a dirty filter presents as a system that works beautifully for twenty minutes and then quits, recovers overnight, and does the same thing the next day. The same protective logic covers the outdoor unit in reverse: on a very hot day, or with a coil packed with leaves, it cannot reject heat fast enough, its pressures and discharge temperature climb, and it stops before the compressor is damaged. Both of these get worse in exactly the weather that makes them noticeable.

The second family is communication. An indoor unit and an outdoor unit are two appliances joined by a cable, and if the message between them fails, the system will not run — it usually shuts down promptly and reports a communication error. Rodent damage to interconnecting cable, water in a connection, a loose terminal after a hot summer, or work done nearby all cause it, and the useful diagnostic is that a communication fault stops the system in seconds rather than after a productive run. One brand attributes some undefined errors to electrical noise from other equipment, which is worth knowing because it explains the ones that appear only when something else in the building is running.

The third is not a fault at all. Timers, sleep modes and week schedules are easy to set accidentally on remotes with dozens of buttons, and a unit that goes off at ten each night and cannot be persuaded otherwise is following an instruction. Similarly, a unit that reaches its set point and stops is doing its job — the distinguishing question is whether the room is actually at the set temperature when it stops, because a system stopping at target and a system stopping short look identical from an armchair.

The last thing to check is the supply. An outdoor unit on its own circuit trips like any other appliance, and a breaker that goes after ten minutes of running is telling you about a load rather than a short. What not to do is reset repeatedly: each reset re-energises whatever the protection caught, and on a compressor the damage from repeated restarting is cumulative and expensive.

How to narrow it down

Work through these in order.

How long does it run before it stops?

Time it twice. Seconds to a minute points at communication between the indoor and outdoor units or at the supply. Fifteen to thirty minutes of good cooling followed by a stop points at ice on the indoor coil, which is airflow. An hour or more suggests it may simply be reaching its set point and behaving normally.

Does it restart by itself, and how long does it take?

A unit that comes back after twenty minutes has almost certainly protected itself and recovered — thawing a coil or letting pressures fall takes about that long. One that stays off until the power is cycled has latched a fault, and those are generally reported as a code you can retrieve from the unit.

Is there frost or ice on the indoor coil or the pipework when it stops?

Open the front and look at the fins behind the filters straight after it stops. Ice there is the single most useful finding on this page, because it means airflow rather than refrigeration: clean or replace the filters, check nothing is blocking the outlet louvres, and see whether the pattern goes away.

Does the indoor fan keep running after the cooling stops?

It is a subtle but informative detail. The indoor fan continuing while the cooling stops usually means the indoor unit is alive and the outdoor unit has stopped or been cut off. Everything going quiet at once points at the supply, the controls or a communication failure between the two.

Is a timer, sleep mode or weekly schedule set on the remote?

Clear every timer and schedule and try again. Sleep and timer functions are easy to enable by accident and hard to spot afterwards, and a system that turns itself off at a consistent time of day is far more likely to be following a schedule than developing a fault with a clock.

Is a breaker or RCD tripping when it stops?

Go and look at the consumer unit and at any isolator by the outdoor unit. A device that trips after a period of running is reporting something different from one that trips instantly, and either way it should not be reset repeatedly. A tripping circuit on a hard-wired outdoor unit is an electrician rather than an air conditioning call.

Have you retrieved the fault code from the unit?

These systems mostly have no display, so the code has to be asked for — a button sequence on the remote, a light pattern, or a small display on the indoor board. Every brand does it differently and every brand publishes it. Doing this before booking anybody turns a vague complaint into a specific one.

Is the outdoor unit clear, and how hot has the weather been?

A coil matted with leaves or seed, or a unit boxed in for appearance, cannot shed heat, and on the hottest afternoons that is enough to make it stop on high pressure or discharge temperature. If the stopping only happens in the afternoon and only in a heatwave, look there before assuming a component has failed.

Codes commonly shown with this

When it is urgent

Take care

Not urgent in itself, but stop resetting it. A system that shuts down repeatedly is protecting a compressor, and every forced restart adds wear to the most expensive part of the installation — leaving it off until it is diagnosed is genuinely cheaper than persevering. Filters, obstructions, timers and retrieving the fault code are all yours to do safely. A tripping breaker is where that stops: that is an electrical fault on a hard-wired circuit, not an air conditioning setting, and repeated resetting removes the protection rather than fixing anything. Nothing on the refrigerant circuit is owner-serviceable, and here that is a legal restriction rather than advice, because working on one requires F-Gas certification. If you can smell burning or see scorching at either unit, switch the circuit off at the consumer unit and leave it off. And in genuinely hot weather, treat the household before the appliance: shade, night ventilation and the coolest room matter more than the diagnosis for anyone elderly, unwell or very young.

What it costs

Typical repair cost

£0–£400

Typical UK prices including parts and labour, updated September 2026. Your quote may differ.

Get an engineer to look at this

We do not pass enquiries to a repair firm, so there is no form here. When you book an F-Gas certified heat pump engineer, tell them the make, the model and the exact code or message on the display, and ask whether they carry parts for this make — that is what turns one visit into a repair rather than a quote.

Written by

Andrew Pickett

Researcher and writer

Last updated

Technical review

Not reviewed by an engineer

No engineer has read this page. Severity follows what the manufacturer publishes, and we would rather tell you that than let a byline imply a sign-off.

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