AEG i10 fault codewhat it means and how to fix it
No water is coming in. One beep on a model without a display, and AEG publish a pressure range you can test against.
Take care
What i10 means
i10 is a problem with the water inlet, which AEG describe simply as no water coming into the dishwasher. It also shows as i11, AL5, C1 or F1, or as a single beep on machines without a display. Everything that causes it sits outside the machine, which is why this is worth ten minutes of your own time before booking anybody. AEG publish a supply pressure specification for these machines — 0.04 to 1.0 megapascals, which is 0.4 to 10 bar in the units a British plumber would use. That is a wide window, and a property has to be quite badly off to fall below the bottom of it, but it does happen on weak shared supplies and where a pressure-reducing valve has been wound down. One warning belongs on this page and it is not obvious. AEG head their guidance on a damaged inlet hose with "WARNING! Dangerous voltage", because on many of these machines the inlet hose contains a mains cable inside its sheath, feeding the valve at the tap end. It is not an ordinary length of hose, and a damaged one is an electrical hazard as well as a water one.
What causes it
| Cause | What is actually happening | How likely |
|---|---|---|
| Tap closed or partly closed | Free to rule out, and worth doing first if any work has been done under the sink recently. | Common |
| Inlet filter blocked | A gauze screen in the hose connector at the tap end, silted with grit from the mains. Very common in hard water areas. | Common |
| Inlet hose kinked | Usually crushed behind the machine when it was pushed back into the housing after cleaning or repair. | Common |
| Supply pressure below specification | AEG require 0.04 to 1.0 MPa, roughly 0.4 to 10 bar. A weak or shared supply can drop under it at peak times. | Occasional |
| Inlet valve failed | The solenoid that admits water has stopped opening. The genuine repair here, and the last conclusion rather than the first. | Occasional |
What to try yourself
Check the tap under the sink is fully open. On most installations it is a small lever valve on the flexible hose, and it gets knocked by whatever is stored in that cupboard.
Look at the hose before you touch it. If the outer sheath is split, cut or crushed, stop — close the tap, unplug the machine, and get the hose replaced rather than handled. AEG head this warning "Dangerous voltage" because the hose carries a mains cable inside it.
This is not the same as a washing machine fill hose. Do not cut, shorten or repair a dishwasher inlet hose.With the tap closed, unscrew the hose at the tap end into a bowl and check the gauze filter in the connector. Rinse it until light passes through.
Open the tap into a bucket for a few seconds to confirm you have a strong flow. A dribble means the supply is your problem and no appliance repair will change it.
Reconnect finger tight plus a quarter turn, straighten the hose behind the machine so nothing is crushing it, and run a short programme while watching the connections.
Get a qualified appliance engineer to look at your AEG i10
Vetted local appliance engineers. No obligation.
What it costs to fix
Typical repair cost
£0–£160
Time on site
25 minutes
Usually nothing. A replacement inlet hose with its valve is £35 to £70 as a part. An inlet valve fitted is around £90 to £160.
Typical UK prices including parts and labour, updated August 2026. Your quote may differ.
What other owners found
Nobody has shared what worked for them on this code yet. If you have had it, you would be the first — and it genuinely helps the next person.
Related AEG fault codes
- E18Get it checkedWater is not getting in. Bosch publish a full owner procedure including a flow rate you can measure with a jug.Related: water intake
- F06Get it checkedWater fill timeout. The other code Hotpoint hand back to you, and their own checklist covers pressure as well as the tap.Related: water intake
- F12Get it checkedThe water inlet is blocked or restricted. Miele use the same wording for F13, F15 and F173, and warn that the hose connection houses an electrical valve.Related: water intake
- IEGet it checkedWater inlet problem. It is IE with a letter I, not 1E — the washing machine convention does not apply here.Related: water intake
- E02Get it checkedWater outage error — the machine asked for water and none came. Beko send you to the supply and the filters first.Related: water intake
- E2Get it checkedThe dishwasher does not fill with water. Some models show CHECK WATER or NO WATER in words instead of a code.Related: water intake
Common questions about AEG i10
What is the difference between i10 and i11?
Nothing you need to act on. AEG publish them in the same article with the same checks, alongside AL5, C1 and the single-beep signal.
Why is the inlet hose an electrical hazard?
Because on many AEG dishwashers it is not just a hose. There is a mains cable running inside the sheath to operate a valve at the tap end, which is why AEG label a damaged one "Dangerous voltage" and say to close the tap, unplug the machine and have it replaced rather than repaired.
How do I know if my water pressure is too low?
AEG specify 0.04 to 1.0 MPa, which is roughly 0.4 to 10 bar. Without a gauge, disconnect the hose and run the tap into a bucket — if it struggles to fill briskly, that is your answer and it is a plumbing matter rather than an appliance one.
Sources and how we verified this
We establish the facts from the sources below and then write the explanation ourselves. We do not copy manufacturer wording and we do not host their manuals.
- Manufacturer support portal
- Manufacturer technical and service documentation
Checked by Appliance technical reviewer (Qualifications to be displayed on appointment) on 5 August 2026.