AEG i10 fault codewhat it means and how to fix it
No water is coming in. One beep on a model without a display, and AEG publish a pressure range you can test against.
Take care
What i10 means
i10 is a problem with the water inlet, which AEG describe simply as no water coming into the dishwasher. It also shows as i11, AL5, C1 or F1, or as a single beep on machines without a display. Everything that causes it sits outside the machine, which is why this is worth ten minutes of your own time before booking anybody.
AEG publish a supply pressure specification for their full-size machines — a minimum of 0.5 bar (0.05 megapascals) and a maximum of 8 or 10 bar (0.8 or 1.0 MPa) depending on the model, so check your own manual for the top figure. That is a wide window, and a property has to be quite badly off to fall below the bottom of it, but it does happen on weak shared supplies and where a pressure-reducing valve has been wound down. AEG also give a test that needs no gauge: if a tap cannot fill a 5-litre bucket in 30 seconds, the pressure is too low to run the machine and the water supplier, not an engineer, is the call to make.
One warning belongs on this page and it is not obvious. AEG head their guidance on a damaged inlet hose with "WARNING! Dangerous voltage", because on many of these machines the inlet hose contains a mains cable inside its sheath, feeding the valve at the tap end. It is not an ordinary length of hose, and a damaged one is an electrical hazard as well as a water one.
What causes it
| Cause | What is actually happening | How likely |
|---|---|---|
| Tap closed or partly closed | Free to rule out, and worth doing first if any work has been done under the sink recently. | Common |
| Inlet filter blocked | A gauze screen in the hose connector at the tap end, silted with grit from the mains. Very common in hard water areas. | Common |
| Inlet hose kinked | Usually crushed behind the machine when it was pushed back into the housing after cleaning or repair. | Common |
| Supply pressure below specification | AEG require at least 0.5 bar (0.05 MPa), with the maximum 8 or 10 bar by model. A weak or shared supply can drop under the minimum at peak times, and AEG name other appliances drawing water at the same moment as a cause. | Occasional |
| Inlet valve failed | The solenoid that admits water has stopped opening. The genuine repair here, and the last conclusion rather than the first. | Occasional |
What to try yourself
Check the tap under the sink is fully open. On most installations it is a small lever valve on the flexible hose, and it gets knocked by whatever is stored in that cupboard.
Look at the hose before you touch it. If the outer sheath is split, cut or crushed, stop — close the tap, unplug the machine, and get the hose replaced rather than handled. AEG head this warning "Dangerous voltage" because the hose carries a mains cable inside it.
This is not the same as a washing machine fill hose. Do not cut, shorten or repair a dishwasher inlet hose.With the tap closed, unscrew the hose at the tap end into a bowl and check the gauze filter in the connector. Rinse it until light passes through.
Open the tap into a bucket and time it. AEG’s own test is whether a tap can fill a 5-litre bucket in 30 seconds; if it cannot, the pressure is too low for the machine and it is your water supplier’s problem rather than an appliance repair.
Reconnect the hose by hand, straighten it behind the machine so nothing is crushing it, and run a short programme while watching the connection for drips.
Get a qualified appliance engineer to look at your AEG i10
We do not pass enquiries to a repair firm, so there is no form here. When you book a qualified appliance engineer, tell them the make, the model and the exact code or message on the display, and ask whether they carry parts for this make — that is what turns one visit into a repair rather than a quote.
What it costs to fix
Typical repair cost
£0–£160
Time on site
25 minutes
Usually nothing. A replacement inlet hose with its valve is £35 to £70 as a part. An inlet valve fitted is around £90 to £160.
Typical UK prices including parts and labour, updated September 2026. Your quote may differ.
Own this appliance and had this code? . Nothing is published until a person has read it.
Related AEG fault codes
- i20Get it checkedThe machine could not drain. Two beeps on a model without a display, and the filter in the bottom of the tub is the first place to look.Related: same brand
- i30Stop — call an engineerThe anti-flood device has triggered — water has collected in the base of the machine. AEG say to close the water tap and call service.Related: same brand
- i50Get it checkedA wash pump fault, so water is not being driven round the spray arms. Needs an engineer, but AEG do not treat it as a hazard.Related: same brand
- i40Get it checkedA water level sensor fault — not a dirty filter, whatever the repair sites say. This is the code most commonly misreported online.Related: same brand
- i60Get it checkedThe water inside is too hot, or the sensor that measures it has failed. Note that AEG’s own index describes this one differently from the article behind it.Related: same brand
Own an AEG dishwasher? Save it and its codes come first next time.
Related guides
Common questions about AEG i10
What is the difference between i10 and i11?
Nothing you need to act on. AEG publish them in the same article with the same checks, alongside AL5, C1 and the single-beep signal.
Why is the inlet hose an electrical hazard?
Because on many AEG dishwashers it is not just a hose. There is a mains cable running inside the sheath to operate a valve at the tap end, which is why AEG label a damaged one "Dangerous voltage" and say to close the tap, unplug the machine and have it replaced rather than repaired.
How do I know if my water pressure is too low?
AEG’s full-size manuals specify a minimum of 0.5 bar (0.05 MPa) and a maximum of 8 or 10 bar depending on the model. Without a gauge, use the test AEG publish: run a tap into a 5-litre bucket and time it. If it takes longer than 30 seconds, the pressure is too low to operate the appliance and it is a matter for your water supplier rather than an engineer.
Technical review
Not reviewed by an engineer
No engineer has read this page. Severity follows what the manufacturer publishes, and we would rather tell you that than let a byline imply a sign-off.
Sources and how we verified this
We establish the facts from the sources below and then write the explanation ourselves. We do not copy manufacturer wording and we do not host their manuals.
- Manufacturer support portal
- Manufacturer technical and service documentation
This page has not been reviewed by an engineer, and we would rather tell you that than imply otherwise. The severity rating follows what the manufacturer publishes: where they say isolate the appliance and call someone, so do we.