AEG i50 fault codewhat it means and how to fix it
A wash pump fault, so water is not being driven round the spray arms. Needs an engineer, but AEG do not treat it as a hazard.
Take care
Get a qualified appliance engineer to look at your AEG i50
We do not pass enquiries to a repair firm, so there is no form here. When you book a qualified appliance engineer, tell them the make, the model and the exact code or message on the display, and ask whether they carry parts for this make — that is what turns one visit into a repair rather than a quote.
What i50 means
The i50 family — which runs i50 through i59 and i5A through i5F — all relate to a wash motor or pump malfunction, and the AEG manual widens that to the wash pump or the drain pump. The practical effect is that water is not being driven up to the spray arms with enough force, so the machine either stops or runs through a cycle and leaves everything dirty. It is worth being precise about how serious this is, because it would be easy to get wrong.
On AEG washing machines, the motor code E50 carries strong manufacturer language about disconnecting from the power supply and not reconnecting until the fault is fixed. The dishwasher code i50 carries nothing of the sort: AEG’s article gives two things to try first, a reset and a check of the filters and sump for foam and debris, and then recommends booking a service visit with an authorised technician. Those are the same manufacturer and a similar-looking code, and the severity genuinely differs. This site does not import the stronger wording, because AEG did not write it here.
What causes it
| Cause | What is actually happening | How likely |
|---|---|---|
| Wash pump or its motor failed | What the code family names. The pump that drives water up to the spray arms has stopped performing. | Common |
| Pump jammed by debris | Broken glass or a fruit stone through a filter that was not seated properly. Cheaper than a pump, and worth establishing first. | Occasional |
| Wiring or connector to the pump | A corroded connector in a wet environment. Modest to put right compared with the component itself. | Occasional |
| Control board not driving the pump | The board rather than the motor. The more expensive end of the range and the reason a diagnosis has to precede a quote. | Occasional |
Can you fix it yourself?
Stop — this needs an engineer
What it costs to fix
Typical repair cost
£80–£280
Clearing a jam is at the low end, around £80 to £130 including the visit. A replacement wash pump is typically £150 to £280 fitted.
Typical UK prices including parts and labour, updated September 2026. Your quote may differ.
Own this appliance and had this code? . Nothing is published until a person has read it.
Related AEG fault codes
- i20Get it checkedThe machine could not drain. Two beeps on a model without a display, and the filter in the bottom of the tub is the first place to look.Related: same brand
- i30Stop — call an engineerThe anti-flood device has triggered — water has collected in the base of the machine. AEG say to close the water tap and call service.Related: same brand
- i10Get it checkedNo water is coming in. One beep on a model without a display, and AEG publish a pressure range you can test against.Related: same brand
- i40Get it checkedA water level sensor fault — not a dirty filter, whatever the repair sites say. This is the code most commonly misreported online.Related: same brand
- i60Get it checkedThe water inside is too hot, or the sensor that measures it has failed. Note that AEG’s own index describes this one differently from the article behind it.Related: same brand
Own an AEG dishwasher? Save it and its codes come first next time.
Related guides
Common questions about AEG i50
Is this as serious as the E50 motor fault on an AEG washing machine?
No, and it is worth saying so because the codes look alike. On washing machines AEG tell owners to disconnect from the power supply and leave it disconnected. For dishwasher i50 they publish a reset and a filter check, then recommend a service visit. Same manufacturer, deliberately different language.
Can I check anything before booking?
Two things, and both are AEG’s own. First their reset: turn the appliance off at the mains supply, wait around a minute, and switch it back on. Second, take out the filters and check the sump for foam, debris and anything hard lodged where the pump draws from — broken glass is the usual find. Clear it, refit the filters and start a programme. If it runs normally AEG treat the problem as resolved; if the code returns, book.
My dishes are coming out dirty but there is no code. Related?
Possibly the same area, before it got bad enough to report. A weak wash pump, blocked spray arm jets and a clogged filter all reduce the force water reaches the dishes with. Check the arms spin freely and the jets are clear first, since both are free.
Is it worth repairing?
Usually, if the machine is sound otherwise. A jam or a wiring repair is modest, and a wash pump is a normal replacement part rather than an exotic one. Get the figure before agreeing, as always.
Technical review
Not reviewed by an engineer
No engineer has read this page. Severity follows what the manufacturer publishes, and we would rather tell you that than let a byline imply a sign-off.
Sources and how we verified this
We establish the facts from the sources below and then write the explanation ourselves. We do not copy manufacturer wording and we do not host their manuals.
- Manufacturer support portal
- Manufacturer technical and service documentation
This page has not been reviewed by an engineer, and we would rather tell you that than imply otherwise. The severity rating follows what the manufacturer publishes: where they say isolate the appliance and call someone, so do we.