AEG i60 fault codewhat it means and how to fix it
The water inside is too hot, or the sensor that measures it has failed. Note that AEG’s own index describes this one differently from the article behind it.
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What i60 means
AEG give the i60 family — i60, i61, i69 and i6C — as the temperature of the water inside the appliance being too high, or a malfunction of the temperature sensor. That is worth reading twice, because it is the opposite of what people expect from a code in the heating family. This is not a machine that has failed to heat; it is a machine reporting that the water is hotter than it should be, or that it can no longer tell. There is a genuine inconsistency in AEG’s own documentation here and you should know about it before you cross-reference anything. Their support hub labels the i60 family a heating problem, which reads as "not getting hot". The article behind that label, and the user manual, both say too high or sensor malfunction. Those point a reader in opposite directions, and this page follows the article and the manual over the index heading. On a machine without a display this one signals as six flashes, and AEG word it as the lights on the MY TIME selection bar flashing six times intermittently — which is a different indicator from the one older models use, and a good illustration of why counting flashes on these machines is less straightforward than it sounds.
What causes it
| Cause | What is actually happening | How likely |
|---|---|---|
| Temperature sensor failed | The NTC sensor reporting values the board cannot reconcile. Named directly in AEG’s wording and the most likely finding. | Common |
| Heating element or its control stuck on | Genuinely overheating water rather than a misreading. Less common, but it is the other half of what the code covers. | Occasional |
| Scale on the element | Insulating deposit causing the element to run hotter than the water around it. A hard water problem, and the reason the softener and salt matter. | Occasional |
| Machine plumbed into a hot supply | Worth ruling out on a recent installation. Most dishwashers are cold fill, and feeding one from a hot tap can push inlet temperature past what it expects. | Rare |
Can you fix it yourself?
Stop — this needs an engineer
What it costs to fix
Typical repair cost
£90–£240
A temperature sensor is typically £90 to £160 fitted. A heating element is more, around £140 to £240, and on these machines it is often integrated with the wash pump housing which pushes the price up.
Typical UK prices including parts and labour, updated August 2026. Your quote may differ.
What other owners found
Nobody has shared what worked for them on this code yet. If you have had it, you would be the first — and it genuinely helps the next person.
Related AEG fault codes
- F10Get it checkedHeating element fault — and the page to read the safety notice on if your machine was built between 2005 and 2015.Related: heating and drying
- HEGet it checkedHeater circuit failure. The dishes come out wet and nothing has been properly sanitised, even though the cycle appeared to finish.Related: heating and drying
- E8Get it checkedThe water heating element is not working correctly, or the filter plate is clogged. Candy bundle two very different problems into one code.Related: heating and drying
- E06Get it checkedTemperature sensor faulty. Beko tie it to a specific symptom — the code plus poor washing means get it looked at.Related: heating and drying
Common questions about AEG i60
Does i60 mean it is not heating?
No, and this is the confusing part. AEG’s article and manual both say the water is too hot or the temperature sensor has failed. Their support hub separately labels the family a heating problem, which reads the other way round. The article and the manual are the more specific sources and this page follows them.
Is a machine running too hot dangerous?
AEG do not attach hazard language to this code, so it is not presented as one. But it is not one to keep resetting either — the machine has stopped because it cannot verify a temperature, and the sensible thing is to find out why rather than override it.
Is my dishwasher meant to be plumbed into hot or cold?
Cold, on almost all modern machines — they heat their own water so the cycle temperature is controlled. If yours was recently installed and connected to a hot tap, mention it, because it is an easy thing to get wrong and it produces exactly this kind of complaint.
Would descaling help?
It helps generally in a hard water area, and keeping the salt topped up is worth doing regardless. It will not bring back a failed sensor, and it is not a substitute for finding out which half of this code you have.
Sources and how we verified this
We establish the facts from the sources below and then write the explanation ourselves. We do not copy manufacturer wording and we do not host their manuals.
- Manufacturer support portal
- Manufacturer technical and service documentation
Checked by Appliance technical reviewer (Qualifications to be displayed on appointment) on 5 August 2026.