AEG i30 fault codewhat it means and how to fix it
The anti-flood device has triggered — water has collected in the base of the machine. AEG say to close the water tap and call service.
Stop — this needs an engineer
Get a qualified appliance engineer to look at your AEG i30
We do not pass enquiries to a repair firm, so there is no form here. When you book a qualified appliance engineer, tell them the make, the model and the exact code or message on the display, and ask whether they carry parts for this make — that is what turns one visit into a repair rather than a quote.
What i30 means
i30 means the anti-flood device is on, which AEG describe as indicating an internal leak caused by water collecting in the base of the appliance. Their instruction is unambiguous: close the water tap and contact an authorised service centre, with a warning to turn off the water supply to avoid any risk of flooding. It is worth knowing what the symptom looks like, because it confuses people.
AEG’s own symptom list for i30 has the drain pump running constantly — a background hum or rumbling noise low down — alongside the code and the three beeps, and they give the anti-flood device being on as the reason the pump is running. So the classic presentation of i30 is not a puddle. It is a dishwasher that will not do anything except emit a constant low hum, indefinitely, with water in the base that you cannot see. That hum is the protection working, not a pump that has failed.
The thing not to do is the fix the internet agrees on. Tipping the machine onto its side or back to empty the base and release the anti-flood device does clear the code, and it addresses nothing: the water got into the base from somewhere, and you have just emptied the only thing that was telling you so.
What causes it
| Cause | What is actually happening | How likely |
|---|---|---|
| Internal hose or connection leaking | A perished hose or a slipped clip dripping into the base tray. Common, and among the cheaper outcomes once the leak is actually found. | Common |
| Door seal perished at the lower corners | Water running down the inside of the door and collecting underneath rather than escaping at the front where you would see it. | Occasional |
| Tub or sump leaking | A split or a failed seal at the bottom of the tub itself. More serious, and the reason a diagnosis has to come before a price. | Occasional |
| Excess foam overflowing into the base | Washing-up liquid in the detergent compartment produces enough foam to escape the tub entirely and trip the float without anything having failed. | Occasional |
| Float switch stuck or faulty | The protection reporting water that has gone. Real, but concluded after a leak has been ruled out rather than assumed at the start. | Rare |
Can you fix it yourself?
Stop — this needs an engineer
What it costs to fix
Typical repair cost
£90–£260
A hose or clip repair is typically £90 to £160. A tub or sump seal is £150 to £260 because considerably more has to come apart. The leak has to be found before anyone can price it honestly.
Typical UK prices including parts and labour, updated September 2026. Your quote may differ.
Own this appliance and had this code? . Nothing is published until a person has read it.
Related AEG fault codes
- i20Get it checkedThe machine could not drain. Two beeps on a model without a display, and the filter in the bottom of the tub is the first place to look.Related: same brand
- i10Get it checkedNo water is coming in. One beep on a model without a display, and AEG publish a pressure range you can test against.Related: same brand
- i50Get it checkedA wash pump fault, so water is not being driven round the spray arms. Needs an engineer, but AEG do not treat it as a hazard.Related: same brand
- i40Get it checkedA water level sensor fault — not a dirty filter, whatever the repair sites say. This is the code most commonly misreported online.Related: same brand
- i60Get it checkedThe water inside is too hot, or the sensor that measures it has failed. Note that AEG’s own index describes this one differently from the article behind it.Related: same brand
Own an AEG dishwasher? Save it and its codes come first next time.
Related guides
Common questions about AEG i30
What should I do right now?
Close the water tap feeding the machine, which is AEG’s own first instruction, then switch it off at the wall. Their warning is to turn off the water supply to avoid any risk of flooding. Then book someone rather than trying to clear it.
Why is the pump running constantly?
Because the anti-flood device is on. That is how AEG put it in their own symptom list for i30: drain pump runs constantly, a background hum or rumbling noise low down, with the anti-flood device on as the reason. The constant hum with nothing else happening is the protection at work, not a pump that has gone wrong, and it is telling you there is water in the base whether or not you can see any.
Can I just tip the machine to drain the tray?
You can, and it will clear the code, and it is a bad idea. It empties the tray without touching whatever filled it, and it resets the one device standing between a slow leak and your kitchen floor. A dishwasher leaks under a worktop where nobody sees it, usually overnight — which is precisely why the float is there.
There is no water on my floor, so is it a false alarm?
Unlikely, and the dry floor is the point. The tray catches the leak before it reaches your kitchen. What you cannot see is not evidence that nothing is happening.
Could washing-up liquid have caused it?
Yes, and it is worth saying if it happened. Washing-up liquid foams enormously in a dishwasher, and enough foam will come over the top of the tub and into the base. Mention it when you book, because it changes what the engineer looks for.
AEG’s own article says to leave it off overnight. Should I?
You can, and it is the one thing AEG do publish for an owner to try: close the tap, check the machine is level and the baskets loaded so nothing stops the spray arm turning, check the filters, spray arms, sump and door gasket are clean, then disconnect the power and leave it off overnight with the tap still closed. AEG are equally clear about what that is: the error may disappear and the programme run again, but if the source of the leak into the base has not been rectified, it is likely that i30 will return. Treat a clear next morning as a test result, not a repair, and if it comes back, close the tap and book.
Technical review
Not reviewed by an engineer
No engineer has read this page. Severity follows what the manufacturer publishes, and we would rather tell you that than let a byline imply a sign-off.
Sources and how we verified this
We establish the facts from the sources below and then write the explanation ourselves. We do not copy manufacturer wording and we do not host their manuals.
- Manufacturer support portal
- Manufacturer technical and service documentation
This page has not been reviewed by an engineer, and we would rather tell you that than imply otherwise. The severity rating follows what the manufacturer publishes: where they say isolate the appliance and call someone, so do we.