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myenergi zappi Overload

Get it checkedEV chargerzappi v2 and v2.1.Last updated

Code 30: the car is drawing more current than the zappi offered, so the output has been switched off. Reset, and if it repeats the question is the car, not the charger.

Take care

Some of this is safe to check yourself, but the repair itself is not. If the fault comes back after one reset, stop resetting it and get a registered electrician to look at the myenergi zappi properly.

What this means

Overload, code 30, is the one numbered fault where the finger points at the vehicle. myenergi define it as the EV drawing too much current, with the output switched off as a result, and the action is the standard reset, unplug the EV and press and hold the button. A Mode 3 charger like the zappi tells the car how much current it may take, through the control pilot signal, and the car’s onboard charger is supposed to stay under that figure. The zappi offers anything from 6 to 32 amps depending on mode, solar surplus and any load-limit the installer has set, and it measures what is actually flowing.

The installation manual puts a figure on the trip: the zappi opens its contactor and isolates the EV if the vehicle draws more than 125 per cent of the maximum current the zappi has communicated to it, showing Over Current! on the display, and myenergi explain the reason — if the car’s onboard charging equipment has a problem and overdraws, the zappi cannot control the charge rate as expected and it could lead to overheating or tripping the main circuit breaker. So when the car ignores the offer and pulls more, the zappi cuts it off rather than let the cable or the supply carry current they were not sized for. That makes the code useful in an unusual way. If it happens with one car and not another, or started after a car software update, the onboard charger is misbehaving and the dealer needs to know.

If it happens on a hot day in ECO mode as the zappi throttles down through low currents, some cars are slow to follow a falling limit, and a brief overshoot trips it. If it happens with a granny cable adapter or a non-compliant untethered cable, the cable is lying about its rating. What it is not is a sign the zappi is broken, unless the current the car is actually drawing is normal and the zappi still trips, which is a measurement fault to raise with myenergi.

What causes it

Causes of myenergi zappi Overload, most common first
CauseWhat is actually happeningHow likely
The car exceeded the current the zappi offeredmyenergi’s stated meaning. The onboard charger did not respect the pilot limit, whether through a fault or slow response to a falling limit in ECO mode.Common
A cable rated lower than it claimsOn untethered units the cable tells the zappi its rating. A poor-quality cable that reports 32 A while built for less puts the mismatch on the zappi’s side of the plug.Occasional
A car software changeOverload that began after a vehicle update, on a charger that was fine for months, is the car’s new behaviour. Dealers have seen this with specific firmware.Occasional
A zappi current-measurement faultThe rare case: the car is provably drawing normal current and the zappi still trips 30. That is one for myenergi support with the app’s charge-session data.Rare

What to try yourself

  1. Unplug the EV and press and hold the menu button to reset the unit, as published — three seconds, per the installation manual.

  2. Try a charge in FAST mode. A steady 32 A offer with no throttling tells you whether the car overshoots on its own or only when the zappi is varying the current in ECO or ECO+.

  3. On an untethered zappi, try a different, properly rated Type 2 cable. myenergi require a cable compliant with EN 62196 and support 13, 20 and 32 amp ratings.

  4. If it follows the car and not the cable or mode, note the dates and raise it with the car’s dealer; the onboard charger is drawing more than it was told to. If it persists on every car and cable, contact myenergi.

Get a registered electrician to look at your myenergi zappi ev charger

We do not pass enquiries to a repair firm, so there is no form here. When you book a registered electrician, tell them the make, the model and the exact code or message on the display, and ask whether they carry parts for this make — that is what turns one visit into a repair rather than a quote.

What it costs to fix

Typical repair cost

£0–£120

Time on site

15 minutes

Nothing at the charger. A replacement compliant Type 2 cable, if the cable is at fault, is £60 to £120.

Typical UK prices including parts and labour, updated September 2026. Your quote may differ.

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Written by

Andrew Pickett

Researcher and writer

Last updated

Technical review

Not reviewed by an engineer

No engineer has read this page. Severity follows what the manufacturer publishes, and we would rather tell you that than let a byline imply a sign-off.

What we check instead

Sources and how we verified this

We establish the facts from the sources below and then write the explanation ourselves. We do not copy manufacturer wording and we do not host their manuals.

  • Manufacturer technical and service documentation

This page has not been reviewed by an engineer, and we would rather tell you that than imply otherwise. The severity rating follows what the manufacturer publishes: where they say isolate the appliance and call someone, so do we.

Read our full verification process

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