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Air conditioning not cooling

Measure the difference between the air going in and the air coming out before deciding anything, because it separates a unit that is not cooling from a unit that is not cooling enough.

What it usually means

Air conditioning fails in two quite different ways and they need distinguishing before anything else. Either the unit is producing cold air and there is not enough of it, or the unit is not producing cold air at all. The test takes a minute and needs no tools worth mentioning: run it on cooling at its lowest setting for ten minutes, then compare the temperature of the air being drawn into the indoor unit with the air leaving it. A healthy system will show something in the order of eight to twelve degrees of difference. Anything close to zero means it is not cooling. A good difference with a room that never gets comfortable means it is cooling and losing.

Take the second case first, because it is more often misdiagnosed. A split system is sized for a particular heat gain, and rooms change: a conservatory added, a glass door replaced, a south-facing blind removed, a home office with three computers and a router that used to be a spare bedroom. Add a hot week where the outdoor unit cannot shed heat into forty degree air and the same equipment that coped for years stops coping. Nothing has broken. The same applies to doors and windows left open, and to a unit fighting a room whose curtains admit direct sun all afternoon.

The first case has a short list, and airflow is at the top of it. An indoor filter clogged with dust does not merely reduce output; it starves the coil of air until the coil gets cold enough to ice over, at which point airflow drops further and the unit either blows nothing or protects itself and stops. Ice on the indoor coil almost always means restricted airflow, and the filters in a wall-mounted unit lift out and rinse under a tap in a couple of minutes. The outdoor unit has the equivalent problem in reverse: it has to reject heat, so leaves packed into the coil, a shrub grown around it, or a decorative screen too close will all cut performance.

Then there is refrigerant. This is where the honesty matters, because "it needs a re-gas" is the most oversold phrase in the trade. A sealed circuit does not consume refrigerant. If it is short, it has leaked, and refilling it without finding the leak means paying twice — once now and once next summer. A system genuinely short of refrigerant reports it, and the published fault is a shortage rather than a service item.

Two settings account for a good number of calls. The mode has to be cooling, not fan, dry or auto, and on most remotes the icons are small and easy to change by accident. And the outdoor unit usually has its own isolating switch, fitted outside near the unit, which gets switched off for painting or gardening or during winter and never switched back on — an indoor unit blowing room-temperature air with a silent outdoor unit is very often exactly that.

How to narrow it down

Work through these in order.

What is the temperature difference between the air going in and the air coming out?

Hold a thermometer at the intake grille and then in the outlet stream after ten minutes of running on cooling. Roughly eight to twelve degrees of drop means the refrigeration side is working and the problem is capacity, insulation or heat gain. Almost no drop means the unit is genuinely not cooling, which is a much shorter list.

Is the mode actually set to cooling, and the temperature set below the room?

Check the icon on the remote rather than assuming. Fan, dry and auto modes all run the indoor unit and none of them will cool a room the way you expect, and a set point above the current room temperature means the system has nothing to do. It is a trivial cause and it is genuinely common.

Is the outdoor unit running?

Go and look, and listen for the compressor rather than just the fan. A silent outdoor unit with a working indoor unit is the classic signature of the isolating switch beside it having been turned off, or its breaker having tripped. That switch is often in a small grey enclosure on the wall nearby and is easy to overlook.

When were the indoor filters last cleaned?

Lift the front cover of the indoor unit and take them out. A film of grey dust is enough to cut performance noticeably, and a thick one starves the coil of air until it freezes. They rinse under a tap and dry in an hour, and doing this before calling anybody resolves a real proportion of these complaints.

Is there ice anywhere on the indoor unit or its pipework?

Ice means the coil is running colder than it should because air is not moving across it, or because the charge is wrong. Switch to fan only for half an hour to melt it, then deal with the filters. If it ices again with clean filters, stop and get it looked at rather than repeating the cycle.

Is the outdoor unit clear of leaves, growth and obstructions?

It works by dumping heat into the air around it, so it needs space on the coil face and above. Leaves matted into the fins, a hedge that has closed in over two summers, or a screen built tight around it for appearance all reduce cooling in the hottest weather, which is exactly when it is noticed.

Has the room itself changed?

Think about glass, occupancy and equipment. A unit sized for a bedroom will not cool the same room once it holds two monitors and a server, and a new patio door or a removed blind changes the heat coming in substantially. If the unit produces a good temperature drop and the room stays warm, this is where the answer is.

Has anyone said it needs re-gassing?

Ask what leak they found. Refrigerant is not consumed, so a system that is short has a leak, and adding gas without repairing it is a repeat bill next season. A genuine shortage is normally reported by the unit as its own fault, and getting the code out of it is a documented button sequence rather than guesswork.

Codes commonly shown with this

When it is urgent

Take care

Not urgent for the equipment, and in most weather not urgent for the household — but treat heat itself as the risk rather than the appliance. In a hot spell, a room that cannot be cooled matters most where someone is elderly, unwell or very young, and simple measures come first: close blinds during the day, ventilate at night, and move people to the coolest room. The unit is safe to leave switched off while you decide. Filters, obstructions and the outdoor isolator are all yours to check. Everything on the refrigerant circuit is not, and this is a legal line rather than a cautious one: handling refrigerant requires F-Gas certification. Do not add gas, release pressure or open the pipework, and be sceptical of anyone who proposes topping up a sealed circuit without finding out why it is short. The outdoor unit is a high-current appliance on its own circuit and hard-wired on most installations, so if you can smell burning or see scorching at either unit, switch off the circuit at the consumer unit rather than looking for a plug.

What it costs

Typical repair cost

£0–£400

Typical UK prices including parts and labour, updated September 2026. Your quote may differ.

Get an engineer to look at this

We do not pass enquiries to a repair firm, so there is no form here. When you book an F-Gas certified heat pump engineer, tell them the make, the model and the exact code or message on the display, and ask whether they carry parts for this make — that is what turns one visit into a repair rather than a quote.

Written by

Andrew Pickett

Researcher and writer

Last updated

Technical review

Not reviewed by an engineer

No engineer has read this page. Severity follows what the manufacturer publishes, and we would rather tell you that than let a byline imply a sign-off.

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