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Ariston 303 fault codewhat it means and how to fix it

Get it checkedBoilerLast updated

The main control board has reported an internal fault. It needs an engineer, and it is worth checking the electrical supply before assuming the board is dead.

Take care

Some of this is safe to check yourself, but the repair itself is not. If the fault comes back after one reset, stop resetting it and get a Gas Safe registered engineer to look at the Ariston properly.

Get a Gas Safe registered engineer to look at your Ariston 303

We do not pass enquiries to a repair firm, so there is no form here. Find a Gas Safe registered engineer through the Gas Safe Register, and ask to see their registration card when they arrive — it is the register, not the van, that tells you they are qualified.

What 303 means

Codes beginning with 3 are what Ariston call the internal electronic part, and their entry against 303 is simply "main P.C.B.". The neighbouring numbers are worth knowing because they are not interchangeable: 301 is an EEPROM error, 302 a communication error, 304 too many resets, and 305, 306 and 307 are further main PCB entries.

A board fault is genuinely a board fault more often than not, but unstable mains supply produces board errors that look identical from outside, and a property with a marginal supply, a shared meter arrangement or a history of brownouts can throw one without anything being wrong with the board.

Ariston do not publish a voltage code for the boiler to tell you that, which is exactly why the supply is worth eliminating before a board is condemned. It is also worth checking whether the appliance has been reset more than five times in fifteen minutes, because that produces a 304 rather than a 303 and is not a fault at all. Replacing a control board is one of the more expensive repairs on a domestic boiler, so it is reasonable to expect an engineer to eliminate the supply first.

What causes it

Causes of the Ariston 303 fault code, most common first
CauseWhat is actually happeningHow likely
Control board component failureBoards fail with age, heat cycling, and damp. The most likely explanation, particularly on an appliance over ten years old.Common
Unstable or low mains supplyVoltage sag or a poor neutral produces board errors indistinguishable from a hardware failure, and there is no separate code that would tell you which you have.Occasional
Moisture inside the caseA leak from the appliance itself, or condensation in an unheated garage installation, tracking across the board.Occasional
Damaged wiring harnessA chafed or corroded connector making the board read impossible values from its own inputs.Occasional

Can you fix it yourself?

What it costs to fix

Typical repair cost

£80–£550

A power cycle costs nothing. A diagnostic visit is £80 to £140. A replacement main PCB is typically £300 to £520 fitted, which on an older appliance is worth weighing against replacement.

Typical UK prices including parts and labour, updated September 2026. Your quote may differ.

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Written by

Andrew Pickett

Researcher and writer

Last updated

Technical review

Not reviewed by an engineer

No engineer has read this page. Severity follows what the manufacturer publishes, and we would rather tell you that than let a byline imply a sign-off.

What we check instead

Sources and how we verified this

We establish the facts from the sources below and then write the explanation ourselves. We do not copy manufacturer wording and we do not host their manuals.

  • Manufacturer technical and service documentation

This page has not been reviewed by an engineer, and we would rather tell you that than imply otherwise. The severity rating follows what the manufacturer publishes: where they say isolate the appliance and call someone, so do we.

Read our full verification process

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