Electric shower faults common to all brands
The questions people actually arrive with about an electric shower — it runs cold, it trips the breaker, it is dead, it is dripping from a stub under the case — have no code attached and much the same answer on every make.
This page is only for instantaneous electric showers: cold mains in, an element, a dedicated high-current circuit. It is not a mixer or digital shower, and it is not Mira's light sequences, Bristan's E1–E3, or Triton and Redring's own cut-out behaviour. Those differ by badge, and "the thermal cut-out has gone" means a non-resettable part on Triton, a cyclic reset on Redring, and five minutes off on a Bristan Joy Care. Getting those confused scraps a working shower or books a call-out for a wait.
There is no plug. Isolation is the ceiling pull cord or a wall switch. Replacing a shower on its existing circuit is a repair and is not notifiable; running a new circuit or altering one inside the bathroom zone is. If the breaker or RCD trips twice, leave it off and book a qualified electrician. This is not gas work.
Named-brand hubs in this category: Redring, Mira, Triton and Bristan. Those pages carry the manufacturer’s own table; this one does not replace them.
How these displays appear
Most electric showers cannot show you a code. The common ones have a knob, a power selector and one or two neon lamps, and everything they are able to tell you is in whether those lamps are lit. Among the models that do have a display the published sets are short and they are not comparable with each other: Bristan show E1, E2, E3, LP and CL on a small temperature indicator, and Mira encode thirteen faults into the colour and rhythm of two lights rather than printing a character at all. If your shower shows something, go to your brand page. If it shows nothing, this is the right place — a dead neon and a cold shower are diagnosable without a code.
What a reset actually does
The reset for an electric shower is the pull cord, and it is worth being clear about what that does and does not achieve. Switching off at the cord or the wall isolator removes the supply, and after ten to fifteen seconds the control electronics have genuinely lost their state, which clears a transient fault and re-arms any protection that latched. It does not reset a non-resettable thermal cut-out, because that device has physically opened and only a replacement part restores it. Two brand-specific habits matter more than the reset itself. Mira ask you to let the shower finish its shutdown before you pull the cord, and record a fault code for people who do not. Redring reset their cyclic cut-out by running the shower cold for a while rather than by isolating it at all.
Most common shared electric showers faults
The electric shower displays people look up most, whichever badge is on the appliance.
- Shower runs coldGet it checkedWater flows but never heats. On an electric shower this is nearly always the supply, the flow through it, or an element that has stopped working.
- Shower keeps tripping the electricsStop — call an engineerA shower that trips the breaker or RCD is reporting a real electrical fault. Do not keep resetting it to get one more shower out of it.
- Shower completely deadGet it checkedNo neon, no water, nothing when you pull the cord. On an electric shower a total dead is almost always the supply rather than the appliance.
- Thermal cut-out has operatedGet it checkedThe safety device has taken the elements out of circuit. Whether you can reset it yourself depends entirely on the brand, and the answers differ.
Every shared electric shower fault
9 published shared pages. Filtering happens in the page — every one is in the HTML.
Showing 9 of 9 codes
Electric showers these pages cover
These pages apply across types. The split is by how the appliance is built, not by badge.