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FaultcodeCheck

Washing machine not spinning

Most machines that will not spin have decided not to, rather than failed to. Telling a refusal from a breakdown takes one look at how the load is sitting.

What it usually means

A modern washing machine will not spin a load it considers unsafe to spin, and it makes that judgement several times in every cycle. Understanding that is the difference between a five-minute answer and a repair bill, because a refusal and a failure look identical from the front.

Spinning is violent. At 1400 revolutions a minute the drum is throwing several kilos of wet cloth outwards hard enough to walk the machine across the floor if that mass is not distributed evenly, so before it accelerates the board runs a distribution routine — tumbling slowly, sensing how the weight moves, trying again. A single heavy item is the classic defeat: one bath sheet, a pair of jeans, a duvet or a dog bed will sit as a lump on one side, and after a few failed attempts the machine gives up, drains, and stops with the washing wet. Manufacturers give this its own code precisely because it is not a fault: Samsung and LG call it UE, Bosch report it as the machine simply saying the cycle has ended.

Foam is the second refusal and the one people never expect. Too much detergent, or washing-up liquid, or a non-biological powder dosed for a hard-water area in a soft-water one, and the drum fills with lather that cushions the load and unbalances it. The machine detects the suds and either extends the rinses or abandons the spin.

Then there is the boring one: it cannot spin because it never got rid of the water. That is a drainage fault presenting as a spin fault, and the page on a drum that will not empty covers it properly.

Only when all of those are ruled out are you into mechanical failure — a snapped drive belt on a belt-driven machine, worn carbon brushes on an older motor, or drum bearings on the way out. Each has a distinctive sign: a belt lets the motor run up with no drum movement at all, brushes give sparking and a smell of hot electrics, and bearings roar and rumble long before they finally stop things.

How to narrow it down

Work through these in order.

What was in the load?

Take it out and look. One duvet, one large towel, a single pair of heavy jeans or anything that has wrapped itself into a rope is enough for the machine to abandon a spin every time. Redistribute it by hand, add two or three smaller items to balance it, and run a spin cycle on its own before assuming anything is broken.

Was there water left in the drum?

If there was, you do not have a spin problem at all — the machine cannot spin water out that it has not pumped out first. That is a drainage fault, its causes are entirely different and mostly free to fix, and it needs chasing before anything about the motor matters.

How much detergent are you using, and what kind?

More is not better and the doses on the packet assume a full load in hard water. Excess foam physically prevents a spin, and if anyone has ever put washing-up liquid or hand-wash detergent in the drawer you can expect several rinse cycles before the machine will behave. Samsung call it Sud, Bosch E33 and Beko E17.

Which programme was it on?

Worth ruling out before anything else: delicates, wool and handwash programmes deliberately spin slowly or not at all, and most machines have a spin speed button that somebody can leave set to zero or to rinse-hold. A machine that spins perfectly on cottons and never on wool is behaving exactly as designed.

Does the drum turn freely by hand, and can you hear the motor trying?

Open the door on an empty machine and spin the drum. A motor that revs up while the drum barely moves is the signature of a broken or slipped belt on a belt-driven machine, which is one of the cheaper repairs there is. A drum that will not turn by hand at all, or that grinds, is a different and more expensive story.

Is there a burning smell, or sparking visible at the back?

Stop using it. On older machines with brushed motors the carbon brushes wear down and arc as they fail, and both the smell and the flicker of light through the back panel are that. It is a repairable fault and a cheap part, but it is not one to keep running while you think about it.

Is the machine level and standing firm?

A machine that rocks on an uneven floor, or one still carrying its transit bolts after a house move, cannot pass its own balance test however the washing is arranged. Push each top corner in turn: if it moves, the feet need adjusting and locking, and that is the whole repair.

Codes commonly shown with this

When it is urgent

Take care

Not urgent and not dangerous in most cases, and it is worth working through the refusals above before booking anybody, because a great many of these calls end with an engineer redistributing a duvet. Two exceptions. A burning smell, sparking, or a drum that will not turn by hand means stop using it and unplug it at the wall rather than running it again to see. And a machine that bangs hard enough to move across the floor during a spin should be stopped, because that is a load or a suspension problem doing real damage to itself.

What it costs

Typical repair cost

£0–£220

Typical UK prices including parts and labour, updated September 2026. Your quote may differ.

Get an engineer to look at this

We do not pass enquiries to a repair firm, so there is no form here. When you book a qualified appliance engineer, tell them the make, the model and the exact code or message on the display, and ask whether they carry parts for this make — that is what turns one visit into a repair rather than a quote.

Written by

Andrew Pickett

Researcher and writer

Last updated

Technical review

Not reviewed by an engineer

No engineer has read this page. Severity follows what the manufacturer publishes, and we would rather tell you that than let a byline imply a sign-off.

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