Samsung Samsung ecobubble fault codes
Built 2012 onwards
The long-running mainstream range, WW model prefix. Bubble generator dissolves detergent before it reaches the drum, which is also why foam codes appear more often on these than on comparable machines.
Codes on the Samsung ecobubble follow the same Samsung scheme as the rest of the range. Where a code behaves differently on this generation, the code page says so.
Samsung fault codes
Every published Samsung code. Open a code to see which models and years it applies to.
- 5EThe machine could not empty within the time it allows. On a Samsung this is the single most common code, and the filter behind the front flap is the usual answer.Get it checked
- 4EThe machine asked for water and did not get enough in the time allowed. Nine times out of ten the answer is at the tap rather than inside the machine.Get it checked
- UEThe load is on one side of the drum and the machine has refused to spin. Samsung are explicit that this is not a fault — it is the machine protecting itself.Usually simple to fix
- dEThe machine cannot confirm the door is locked, so it will not start. On an AddWash there is a second hatch with its own interlock to check.Get it checked
- SudThe machine has detected far more foam than it can spin safely. It is usually too much detergent, and it usually clears itself if you let it.Usually simple to fix
- 3EThe motor is not turning as commanded. Samsung ask you to power off and retry once, and if it returns it is a repair rather than a glitch.Get it checked
- LEThe machine has lost water it should still have. Samsung label this low water level, and checking for an actual leak is part of their own advice.Get it checked
- 1EThe machine cannot trust its water level reading. Expect it to drain for three minutes with the power button dead while it makes itself safe.Get it checked
- 6EThe water is not heating. Samsung do not offer a home remedy for this one — their published instruction is to contact the service centre.Get it checked
- HOTNot a fault. The machine is too hot to open safely, so it is running its fan and holding the door shut until the inside drops to 55°C.Usually simple to fix
- 4E1The machine is being fed hot water when it expects cold. Almost always the fill hose is on the wrong tap, and it is a plumbing fix rather than a fault.Usually simple to fix
- tEThe machine cannot read the water temperature, so it will not commit to heating. One power cycle is the published remedy; a return means a sensor.Get it checked
- 12EA button is stuck down. Samsung treat this as a cleaning job rather than a repair, and a damp cloth across the panel is the whole remedy.Get it checked
- 8EThe machine has measured a current it did not expect and stopped. Try one power cycle, and if it returns treat it as electrical rather than mechanical.Get it checked
- 13ETwo boards inside the machine have lost touch with each other. Samsung say wait a few minutes, because this one often recovers on its own.Get it checked
- DDCNot a fault. The AddWash hatch was opened and closed without pressing start again, so the machine is waiting for you to tell it to carry on.Usually simple to fix
- HE2The dryer half of a washer dryer has shut itself down because it was getting too hot. Samsung state what happened and offer no remedy at all.Get it checked
- CbNot a fault — the machine is in calibration mode. Samsung have printed the wrong remedy against this code, and against CE, on their own website.Usually simple to fix
- PCThe machine cannot find the position of its clutch. Samsung give no home remedy for this one at all — their instruction is to call the service centre.Get it checked